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When is a dually needed?

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Old 12-29-2011, 12:12 PM
  #121
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When it gets to the point where you feel a F250 /350 SRD is questionable safety wise for those 3 to 4 trips a year. Then rent a DRW U-Hall and give'um back the keys when your done.
Average neighborhood Joe's dually purchase is impractical and testosterone driven anyway for a 7-10k 31' boat.
As impractical, as the boats...
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:16 PM
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I tow with this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZQj8hXFQzo
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JD Dearden View Post
Duallys will always tow better no matter what the load is. You have twice the contact on the road and twice the side wall it is really a very simple concept. Is it a must have...probably not the SRW will get the job done.
4 235's are not twice of 2 285's......
Especially if you compare 4 285s (front and rear, and front tires do 70% of the stopping!) vs 6 235's. Those little pizza cutters are a joke on the front of a dually!

Dually will always handle PAYLOAD better, but not always tow better. A tag trailer does not apply enough tongue weight to make the rear tires grip any better than a srw. And if your DRW is a band aid for any other problems, your better off fixing the trailer up than towing with a drw.

Super single semis tow equal or better to a drw semi.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:33 PM
  #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlesnake Jake View Post
From the 2011 Ram Heavy Duty Catalog. Maxium loaded trailer capacity.

Ram 2500 4x4 crew LB with 3.73 gears = 12,650
Ram 3500 4x4 crew LB with 3.73 gears = 13,750

Go to a 4.10 gear and the 2500= 14,650 and the 3500 = 16,750.

Not trying to cause trouble, just want to clarify things..
I understand. I had different info.

First off, Manufacture tow ratings are for salesman memorize to help them sell more! Also for liability, and wrnty claims. They are not the law, especially in commercial hauling. Also funny how the tow ratings keep increasing but the frame and axles are the same! LOL!

Manufacture tow ratings also have noting to do with insurance or lawyers. Anyone can PAY for any amount of insurance they want, to cover anything. NO different then insuring a boat that goes 100mph, but saying you only go 80mph. Anyone can sue anyone even if its not fair. There once was a old lady who was sued and lost lots of money, for co-signing on a car for her grandson who caused a accident and killed someone! Not fair but it happens.

This is what I went to and what automatically came up when you click on Heavy Duty. I touched nothing, but after further review noticed what was selected for gear ratios....my bad. http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/towing_guide/

Another reason to prove that a manufacture tow rating is bogus.... The heavier the truck, the less its rated to tow (st, slt, laramie etc). But the heavier something is the BETTER it tows. THATS the ONLY reason a DRW might, just might, feel better than a SRW towing. Weight. (can you guys believe I just helped the DRW side!!! LOL!) Professional truck pullers are limited on weight for a reason. Whoever weighs more (equal traction) will always pull better.

Last edited by offshorexcursion; 12-29-2011 at 12:44 PM. Reason: Keep finding more info!
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:37 PM
  #125
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Originally Posted by offshorexcursion View Post
4 235's are not twice of 2 285's......
Especially if you compare 4 285s (front and rear, and front tires do 70% of the stopping!) vs 6 235's. Those little pizza cutters are a joke on the front of a dually!

Dually will always handle PAYLOAD better, but not always tow better. A tag trailer does not apply enough tongue weight to make the rear tires grip any better than a srw. And if your DRW is a band aid for any other problems, your better off fixing the trailer up than towing with a drw.

Super single semis tow equal or better to a drw semi.
If we are talking apples to apples on tires than twice the sideway will perform better. But now your getting into overkill on tires also. 235, 285 non of that matters unless you want to discuss rolling mass and RPM's etc...

What does gripping the road have to do with any of this???

Super Single's also have nothing in common with light duty trucks and there tires. Your talking about tires that cost's a ton of money that are 18+ ply.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:38 PM
  #126
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his 30' boat weighs as much as my 40' race boats in the past. could weigh as much as a 10k super cat?!

if ur not going far/often a srw is much less hassle.

and how far in the future?...the products these days a junk and will not make it to ur next purchase anyway.

buy a used 1999-2000 f350 7.3 E4OD 4 speed auto trans...that was the first powertrain to pass every test. from there is was all down hill to have the most problems ever only second to the k-cars.

the chevy dually drives like a car and the 4x4 is easy to get in and out of. the dodge has great engine...it feels like ur in a semi...have not put any miles on ford's newer stuff.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:52 PM
  #127
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Just buy what you like and feel comfortable with as long as it is rated to tow what you need with a respectable safety margin.

A half ton maxed out on GVWR is not the best bet unless you are only doing it a couple times a year a couple miles to and from the launch.

A 3/4 ton HD will pull up to 11,000 with no problem, anything more than that and you a 1 ton or bigger is better to get proper weight distribution to the tow vehicle. Without proper weight on the tow vehicle your brakes will not perform as well, either under or overloaded is not good. Proper tounge weight is very important.

Newer 3/4 tons and 1 tons wether DRW or SRW have the same brakes.

My personal opinion is that at loads under 12,000 the only real benefit of a DRW over a SRW is that you will feel a little less "sway" because you have double the sidewall and probably a stiffer tire in stock form. A DRW rides rougher than a SRW unless loaded.

Proper trailer brakes, tounge weight, and balance is just as important as the tow vehicle.

My views come from many years of towing equipment daily in the excavating business, everything from pickups with utility trailers to 60 ton lowboys to gravel trains.

As stated above, I personally prefer a SRW up to 11 or 12k. Will a DRW do the job just fine, of course, but IMHO there are too many trade offs. If you prefer a DRW, get one, nothing wrong with them.

One more thing, in snow or slippery conditions, a DRW is much worse than a SRW. I have had more butthole puckering moments pulling with a dually than a single, all of them in the rain or snow. They just dont have as much grip when its slick, that is a fact, the trailer pushes the rear end around easier.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:53 PM
  #128
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[QUOTE] Ram 2500 even has a higher tow rating than the 3500 DRW!

QUOTE]

According to the 2010 Dodge Ram Body builders manual

2010 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 DRW 4.10 ratio. Max trailer weight 16,700
2010 2500 Crew cab 4x4 SRW 4.10 ratio. Max trailer weight, 12,500 lbs.

Rear axle GAWR on the 3500 DRW is 9750 lbs.
Rear axle GAWR on the 2500 SRW is 6500 lbs.

Base weight on the rear axle is 2800 lbs empty on the srw.
Base weight on the rear axle is 3140 lbs empty on the drw.

So, if you have a srw, and hook up say a 38-40ft offshore boat, and have 13% tongue weight on the hitch. Lets say the boat weighs in on the trailer and full fuel at 14k lbs. Thats 1820 lbs on the ball. Now put 40 gallons of diesel, a tool box, and a couple buddies in the back seat. Probably add another 800 lbs on the rear axle. So roughly 2600 lbs on top of the 2800 lb base weight. You are at 5400 lbs on the rear axle with a perfectly level truck. Basically, you are at 85% of the capacity of the axle, 1100 lbs to spare. With the DRW, you are around 60%, with 4350 lbs to spare.

If I was in the business of selling trucks to a guy, who was gonna be hauling big loads with a pickup, I'd sleep better at night knowing I sold him a truck that was designed by engineers at Ford, Chrysler, or GM, to haul the loads he will be hauling. Not "it should be fine" or "more psi per square inch will be safer with srw pickup" or "add some air bags".

You guys can call it testosterone, or whatever you want, when you see a guy pulling a offshore boat with a DRW truck. I personally have more respect for a guy when I see him towing big offshore boat with a DRW truck or medium duty truck than i do a guy hauling it on the interstate with a maxxed out pickup or suv.

I suppose because some guys run a 800HP blower motor in front of a bravo drive, a #6 setup is just testosterone and a waste of money.

Will a SRW crew cab 3/4 ton pull a 311 Formula ok? Absolutley. But some guys are acting as if a drw truck would be ridiculous, and a waste of money!

I remember towing my old 241 Liberator down to loto in the spring of 2005. I had just got my new F250 King Ranch srw diesel. Man, was i pumped about it. Figured I had just bought some bad A$$ tow rig, and it was gonna be great. Ya, it was a gusty spring day. The entire trip SUCKED. The truck swayed, got blown around by every passing truck, and I was always having to "Correct" the steering. The diesel sure had some power, but at that point i just wanted to be able to relax, for at least one minute. Nope. Boat sat on a brand new steel trailer, with disc brakes, weighed in at 8000lbs fueled up at the truck stop. The ride back wasn't as bad. About a year later, I pulled that boat to new jersey, same truck. It was ok, but I sure didnt forget i had a trailer hooked up for that 1k miles. Now, I can tow my 38 Fountain with my drw, and its actually a pleasant, stress free ride.

I have also towed several hours away on snowmobile trips with a friends dually hauling a enclosed 24ft snowmobile trailer, and my srw superduty. Hands down, the DRW truck was my pick for the trip. Just my experiance.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:54 PM
  #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Dearden View Post
If we are talking apples to apples on tires than twice the sideway will perform better. But now your getting into overkill on tires also. 235, 285 non of that matters unless you want to discuss rolling mass and RPM's etc...

What does gripping the road have to do with any of this???

Super Single's also have nothing in common with light duty trucks and there tires. Your talking about tires that cost's a ton of money that are 18+ ply.
We are confusing each other I guess...no big deal and it really does not matter. None of us have proof anyways. We need to send this in to Mythbusters. Good point on the sidewall though, but I always recommend upgrading tires if hauling heavy SRW, and that solves the sidewall problems.

Mythbusters...Does a DRW tow better than a SRW!

BTW, have you seen what I tow everyday? Currently my girlfriend is driving while I type on here! We have over one million safe miles towing heavy SRW.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...installed.html

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...op-my-srw.html
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:54 PM
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Speaking of tires. My F350 Dually has 235-85-R16E that are in need of replacement. I just ordered 285-75-R16E. That will give me an increase of overal diameter of 3" and a better foot print. Prolly more peace of mind also.

Any comments fire away..
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