Could someone recommend what pads with what material would you use. ( very,very lite oxidation) what pad would you use to satrt and finish along with speeds not to damage anything. Thanks. That PC kit from amazon looks good.

I bought a kit from Griots Garage a couple years ago. Privately Labels 6" and 3" orbitals. I use it 6-7 times per year on cars and boats. Works awesome.

I let a buddy who does Yacht service in Lauderdale borrow it and hew bought a set the next week. He beats them to death but hasn't killed it yet.

Also their Speedshine is great for quick cleaning of bitd bropping, black marks and water spots.

www.griotsgarage.com

The two types of pads generally used are either foam or wool pads. Foam pads are generally smaller in diameter than wool pads and produce less friction than wool due to the surface area and material makeup. The bigger the surface area of the pad, the more heat that's generated, which increases the cutting action of your polish or compound. For example, if you use the same polish with a heavy cutting pad vs. a light cutting pad, you will get more cutting action and vice-versa. Likewise, if you use a higher speed you will get more cutting action than a lower speed, so take the least aggressive approach when starting out since each surface is different.

Professional detailers typically use wool pads in conjunction with a rotary (high-speed) buffer/polisher but these tools take time to master and can easily burn through paint or gel coat if not used properly. Conversely, a dual-action (DA) polisher typically produces less cutting action and gives the novice or intermediate user a more uniform finish and has less chance of burning the gel coat or paint.

For your purpose, I would suggest going with a DA polisher and a couple different densities of high quality foam pads along with a good polish and a good wax. I also suggest staying away from products that claim to be an "all-in-one" product, such as a "cleaner wax". Polishes and compounds are meant to be used separately from waxes and any company that markets their product that way is feeding you a line.

Here's the process I suggest when polishing:

-Start with a clean surface free from wax and environmental contaminants
-I like using a 4" to 5" pad with the DA because it gives you the right amount of rotation and oscillation
-Mist your pad with water (use a light to medium cutting pad to start because you can always get a more aggressive pad to increase the cutting action)
-Apply 5 to 6 pea-sized drops of polish to your pad
-Blot a 2' x 2' area to spread the product over the section (this gives you even coverage over the area and will minimize splatter)
-Start your DA polisher on the #2 setting, which is usually about 2000-2500 OPM (oscillations per minute) until you spread the product over the area evenly, then increase to the #5 setting which is approx. 5000 OPM
-Make slow horizontal passes overlapping the previous area 50%, then make slow vertical passes overlapping the previous area 50% using about 3-5 lbs of pressure
-Use as many passes as you need until the product becomes translucent or until you get the desired finish you are after
-Stop the polisher and buff the area with a quality microfiber towel to remove any excess polish.
-Do not allow the product to dry on the finish of your boat
-Once you have completed the polishing, finish by waxing the entire surface with a paste wax by hand or with a glaze wax (we prefer the glaze wax) using the DA polisher and a wax application foam pad using the same steps used when applying the polish.

Here's a link to a video we shot at Eliminator boats showing how to perform this process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvSum...layer_embedded

Everyone has a slightly different way of doing the above process, so my suggestion is to find a method that works best for you.

Good luck!

-Tim
Performance Boat Candy

^^ This post is dead on. The only suggestions I would have is to prime the pad by rubbing a uniform amount of polish on the face of the pad instead of misting with water. The reasoning behind this is that the abrasives will be more uniformly space on the surface. Another would be to brush or towel the pad after every section. Oxidation builds up quickly in a pad and will not allow the pad/polish to work as effectively. For most boats that are maintained well or newer a dual action is all that is needed to remove the oxidation and polish any swirls out. Generally I will use the Griots DA with either an orange medium cut, green light cut or white polish pad. Scale your polish up in abrasiveness as needed. If possible I will make an extensive post regarding all types of fiberglass correction using all the current tools of the trade. Sorry for the mega paragraph as I am on my phone.

Wow great info...thanks for all the technical expertise, I'm anxious to try some these methods and products....great info, keep it coming.

Thanks for the video link Tim, that was great!

Danny

Thanks a lot. My boat was done by a pro since new plus covered alway's so it is pretty much oxidation free so I think I will do the detail this spring. And with your insight and help I'm sure it will come out just as good. Thanks again.

I'd also go with more pressure than 3-4lbs. More like 17-20lbs including the weight of the machine. You can practice on a bathroom scale. Of course, you don't turn on the machine when doing this. lol

I'd also recommend using less polish on the pad. 2-3 drops rather than 4-5. More product equals sling and clogged pads. Less is more here.

Also, look into the microfiber pads by McGuire's or Optimum. Newer technology than foam or wool and will cut more like wool but finish down like foam.

Also, wash the boat again with Dawn dishwashing detergent or some appropriate soap with some all purpose cleaner mixed in to clean off the polishing oils prior to waxing. You can alternatively wipe the boat down with a 75% water/25% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) mixture to remove polishing oils.

The only one I see at Lowes near me is a Porter Cable 7346 orbital sander polisher. It looks the same to me.

Ill be trying out the microfiber pads shortly once the season picks up. Probably will get the Optimum/Chemical Guys pads as they can also be used with the rotary.

are you looking into just waxing and polishing or heavy duty work? If your just looking for the common wax and buff jobs I have a harbor freight special that works fine for 30 bucks. Now if I were to be more involved and need major work I would probably spend the money. The one I have is about the size of a palm sander.