Offshoreonly.com - Drive questions Teague/Imco/Bmax

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)

- General Boating Discussion (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-boating-discussion-51/)

- - Drive questions Teague/Imco/Bmax (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-boating-discussion/272376-drive-questions-teague-imco-bmax.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boatlesss (Post 3646297)

yes but the willingness to do so just for the purit of speed kinda makes it a lot of work for what? have to in order to try and gain back what is lost and must do when repower is about the same thing right?

not really, if you stay status quo with the switch, then you have gained reliability and dependability. win win...Then if you decide to take on your own mods to gain speed and do, then its win win win... as with any business R&D is the most expensive part, an avg boater is not going to want to be the R&D mule for any company. In this case the owner can do all his own glass work, and did, but it was done with a tried and true situation, there are other 36's with a higher x dim, he did the same thing in steps. had he gone with the other drive there was no other to compare.

Quote:

Originally Posted by offshorexcursion (Post 3646293)

So while the rest of us are trying to enjoy chatting about boats, and help fellow boaters out, you want to personally attack fellow OSO users? A better place for that would be at your local bar, not on here where we are trying to have fun.

So only people who have owned a drive can comment about the exact drives they have owned?

So for example, Scott Shogren should only comment on boats he has personally owned and driven while trying to make a sale?

Bob Teague should only comment on boats he has owned while writing an magazine article?

What about all the boaters out there that DO NOT go on OSO? How else can their story's be shared if people like myself did not share them?

What happens if the OP never heard of the Arneson bravo conversion but after we shared fell in love with it and was grateful?

THE OP said he does not want to HALF AZZ his boat. SO you think I should have shut up a long time ago even though I gave him a good idea..........which was....

Keep his current drives stock, don't waste any money on XR upgrades since we all agree they will not last....save his money for "his personal dream drive", in the mean time find a deal on a used XR for a spare (there are a TON of deals on XR drives currently, and a TON more will show up this spring).

Once the OP has the money save he can choose his favorite. Might be the Arneson, or the NEW SCX-4 (pretty popular right now). Could be the new B-Max if they update the lower. Could be the Standard SCX but with the new SCX-4 "look alike" lower running a bravo prop. Could be the X-Power cause they decide to have a sale.

Lots of good options on this thread, and good info. But the personal attacks against fellow members trying to enjoy "winter boating" on OSO is just plain SAD.

pretty simple really, you go as you have on many posts about switching to arnesons, not every application will work. how come you don't have them on your boat?...You are no different than the guy that tells someone with an issue with their ford truck to take out the engine and do a Cummings swap. everything you have stated is speculation and not fact. the people that make the drives and own them should be the ones that answer the questions, I have a tiger as well and am upgrading, I have done all the math and you are just simply wrong. I stated in another thread about the costs per drive and am dead on because I researched it. instead of cheer-leading blindly you should perhaps face it that facts are facts. Arnesons are an excellent piece of machinery, but they will be more expensive to rig on most boats, that's not a bad thing, its just a fact.

I have spoken to every drive manufacturer at one time about why should i use their drive, and i reached a great conclusion. just because you have a hard on for surface drives, not everyone else does... put them on your boats and post the results.

So does anybody have an opinion on which drives I should go with:party-smiley-004: I was confused before.... Only kidding this has been a great thread I have learned a lot and want to thank everyone for their input. I am hoping to have my hp and torque numbers next week and my final bill for te motors from Ritchie, then I will make my final decision.

Sorry for the interruption now we can get back on track.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaama82 (Post 3646111)

Panther, Did you lose any speed?

I lost a 1-2 mph on top but picked up mid-range speed with the gear ratio. If I bought the drives today with the 1.5 ratio I don't think I would have lost anything.

In hindsight I should have bought -2 shorties when I bought the drives, it was the same price... I say that because I raised my X dimension 2 1/2" a few years ago and picked up 6 mph on top and 3-5 mph mid-range. If I did the swap and bought shorties I would have picked up for not spending anything more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boatlesss (Post 3646181)

did you not raise teh motors and re do the transom after you put the bmax drives on the boat. i thought i saw a thread on that some time ago.

BMax drives were installed in 2006, X dimension was raised in 2009. As I said in the last post, in hindsight it would have made more sense for me to buy my Bmax drives with -2 shorties. The X-dimension project cost me $1100 to do myself.

Any other questions let me know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boatlesss (Post 3646297)

Ok... I gotta step in here because this makes no sense to me.

I lost 1-2 mph installing the Bmax's but stopped blowing drives. Raising my X dimension had nothing to do with speed loss incurred by my drives. I raised the X dimension because I wanted to do it because I learned (though research) that my X dimension was too low.

By the tone of your comment is it safe to assume that I replaced my Merlin Grumpy Jenkins 345CC heads with AFR 357CNC heads this winter because I installed BMax drives?

If you have any questions please ask me specifically and I'll be glad to answer them. I have nothing to gain by sharing my experiences on this website. I don't have a sponsorship or any ties to companies on this forum, I'm just a hard working guy who has worked on boats most of his life and enjoy my projects.

In the meantime, please don't ASS-U-ME. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom A. (Post 3646196)

To sum up the last 20 pages:

In a brand new boat or a full retro fit, Arneson is just as competitively priced as anyone else.

Some boats work well with different drives than others, so do your homework.

Every drive has had failures, has strong points, and may or may not be right for specific applications.

A boat originally equipped with Bravo style drives will not need a full "conversion" and therefore Bravo style upgrades will be the cheapest way to go.

-That is all.

I agree with Tom, right on point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panther (Post 3646485)

Thanks. When I purchase some drives, I will also need the -2 inches also. My X dimesnion is very conservative.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaama82 (Post 3647364)

Thanks. When I purchase some drives, I will also need the -2 inches also. My X dimesnion is very conservative.

Good idea you can always add spacers if they are to high.

Quote:

Originally Posted by offshorexcursion (Post 3645818)

Price...Here are some rough numbers, no energy tonight to figure out exact...this thread is just a waste of time, but I love boating so.......JUST OFF MEMORY, NOT EXACT PRICE! I would imagine you can also negotiate a better deal. If you want to HELP my post, please do it nicely and I will edit it, or I will stop wasting my time and delete it. :drink:

Arneson 24k includes new steering, trim, stand off box, transmission, tie bar, shafts, complete drive, etc
-sale of trans assembly, steering, stand off box 1,2,3k?
+5k for new prop with better technology
Total $26,000

Imco SCX 14k upper and lower drive
+1000 Imco Gimbal ring
+1000 helmet and reservoir (free during sales often)
+1000 Tie bar?
+1000 Prop
+2000 WCM blueprint lower?
+2500 Stand off box?
Total $22,500

Imco SCX-4 16,5k upper and lower drive
+1000 Imco gimbal ring
+1000 Helmet and reservoir
+1000 Tie bar?
+5000 for prop with better technology
+2500 Stand off box?
Total $27,000

X-Power $38k Upper and lower drive, Stainless Gimbal ring
+1000 Tie bar?
+5000 for prop with better technology
+2500 stand off box?
Total $46,500

B-Max 14k Upper and lower drive
+1000 Imco gimbal ring
+1000 tie bar ?
+1000 prop
+2000 WCM blueprint?
+2500 stand off box?
+2000 Rebuilding the lower every 75-100 hours
Total $21,500+2000 every 75-100 hours

Konrad Ace 25,5k Upper and lower drive, Stand off Box, Transmission, steering
They are on sale for a limited time for 18,5k
I honestly know the least about Konrad, called 1 year ago and talked to the booth at miami this year, both times they did not recommend the ACE for my boat making 800hp.

These are just my recommendation and opinions, obviously every boat and owner is different. Yes you can cut items off the list, but in the long run many end up purchasing many "extra" parts.

Thanks for taking the time to post this. It's good to see some ballpark price comparisons, including potentially needed accessories.

Michael