Upgrade To Disc Brakes
09-24-2012 | 08:21 PM
#11
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From: Metro Detroit
I used the intermediate (stainless calipers) Kodiak kit after doing lots of research. I was thinking TieDown, but came across some bad feedback. Eastern Marine gave me a great deal on the kit, and were very, very helpful. http://www.easternmarine.com/em_stor...rakes_hyd.html
I'd call them if I were you: (800) 453-7379
By the way - they will tell you how to modify you master cylinder (actuator) if it's in good shape to work with disc brakes, so you won't have to buy a new one.
I'd call them if I were you: (800) 453-7379
By the way - they will tell you how to modify you master cylinder (actuator) if it's in good shape to work with disc brakes, so you won't have to buy a new one.
09-24-2012 | 08:40 PM
#12
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From: Milton, Fla!
Mine are...
Installing stainless vented rotors w/aluminum calipers.
09-24-2012 | 10:10 PM
#13
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From: Coastal North Carolina
I also installed an inline pressure relief bypass valve (here) wired to the reverse lights on the outlet side of the m/c. Shifting to reverse causes this valve to open up and bleed all line pressure back into the reservoir so you can back uphill. If you use an inline electric check valve and stop on a downhill slope, it will just trap all the pressure in the system.
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Retired! Boating full-time now.
Retired! Boating full-time now.
09-24-2012 | 10:30 PM
#14
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From: Raystown Lake , Pa.
Yep. You have to remove the check valve in the m/c that drum brakes need. (Not removing that feature is what caused mrfixxall's brakes to burn up.) The guys at Eastern Marine will explain how to do that. Drum brakes also require an inline fitting with a very small orifice (.016") to keep them from applying too quickly. This is usually a brass fitting, and can easily be drilled out to 1/16" or so for the disc brake application.
I also installed an inline pressure relief bypass valve (here) wired to the reverse lights on the outlet side of the m/c. Shifting to reverse causes this valve to open up and bleed all line pressure back into the reservoir so you can back uphill. If you use an inline electric check valve and stop on a downhill slope, it will just trap all the pressure in the system.
I also installed an inline pressure relief bypass valve (here) wired to the reverse lights on the outlet side of the m/c. Shifting to reverse causes this valve to open up and bleed all line pressure back into the reservoir so you can back uphill. If you use an inline electric check valve and stop on a downhill slope, it will just trap all the pressure in the system.
09-25-2012 | 12:08 AM
#15
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Posts: 6,306
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
fixx
Yep. You have to remove the check valve in the m/c that drum brakes need. (Not removing that feature is what caused mrfixxall's brakes to burn up.) The guys at Eastern Marine will explain how to do that. Drum brakes also require an inline fitting with a very small orifice (.016") to keep them from applying too quickly. This is usually a brass fitting, and can easily be drilled out to 1/16" or so for the disc brake application.
I also installed an inline pressure relief bypass valve (here) wired to the reverse lights on the outlet side of the m/c. Shifting to reverse causes this valve to open up and bleed all line pressure back into the reservoir so you can back uphill. If you use an inline electric check valve and stop on a downhill slope, it will just trap all the pressure in the system.
I also installed an inline pressure relief bypass valve (here) wired to the reverse lights on the outlet side of the m/c. Shifting to reverse causes this valve to open up and bleed all line pressure back into the reservoir so you can back uphill. If you use an inline electric check valve and stop on a downhill slope, it will just trap all the pressure in the system.
now you see why i like electric brakes..all the extra stuff that you have to get..
Last edited by FIXX; 09-25-2012 at 12:11 AM.
09-25-2012 | 01:25 AM
#16
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From: Ontario, OH
The check valve in the drum brake master cylinder is called the residual valve. As long as your master cylinder is relatively in decent, should only take a few minutes to pull that valve out.
I used the kodiak kit when converting mine to discs, going to eventually add brakes to the other axle as well. They work great now as is, except I have some seals that like to leak grease and soil the pads so I get a bit of a smoke show after a few stops.
I used the kodiak kit when converting mine to discs, going to eventually add brakes to the other axle as well. They work great now as is, except I have some seals that like to leak grease and soil the pads so I get a bit of a smoke show after a few stops.
09-25-2012 | 05:45 AM
#17
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From: Milton, Fla!
09-25-2012 | 07:41 AM
#18
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If you are upgrading the brakes, don't half ass it. Go ahead and do EoH. It's worth every fricking penny.
There is some good info on www.championtrailerparts.com about converting the master cylinder if you stay with surge.
There is some good info on www.championtrailerparts.com about converting the master cylinder if you stay with surge.
09-25-2012 | 10:07 AM
#20
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From: Raystown Lake , Pa.
Question for C_Spray . When you installed the pressure relief valve did you have to mod your m-cylinder reservoir for a return line ? If so how did you do it ? This will save me some $ .
