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Old 09-25-2012 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Twin O/B Sonic
My discs are due any day and I was unaware of this modification. Will this check valves location be apparent when I pull the master cylinder?
On mine as I remember, the check valve was at the rear of the Master Cylinder. The steel brake line connects directly to it. It will unscrew from the MC then you should be able to take the guts out.
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Old 09-25-2012 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
If you are upgrading the brakes, don't half ass it. Go ahead and do EoH. It's worth every fricking penny.

There is some good info on www.championtrailerparts.com about converting the master cylinder if you stay with surge.
Thank you sir!
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Old 09-25-2012 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by the deep
Question for C_Spray . When you installed the pressure relief valve did you have to mod your m-cylinder reservoir for a return line ? If so how did you do it ? This will save me some $ .
The TieDown bypass valve goes inline at the exit of the m/c. I had to drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole for a return fitting into the reservoir of my m/c (Titan/DICO model 6). It was pretty easy, as the m/c was cast iron. Some m/c's have a provision for this fitting.
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Old 09-25-2012 | 11:18 AM
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I can only comment on the Titan/Dico master cylinder but I would assume others are similar. On the Titan, you have to remove the plunger from the master cylinder, the residual valve is internal.

http://www.championtrailers.com/remo...dual_valve.htm

Originally Posted by Twin O/B Sonic
My discs are due any day and I was unaware of this modification. Will this check valves location be apparent when I pull the master cylinder?
Originally Posted by blefever
On mine as I remember, the check valve was at the rear of the Master Cylinder. The steel brake line connects directly to it. It will unscrew from the MC then you should be able to take the guts out.
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Old 09-25-2012 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by c_deezy
I can only comment on the Titan/Dico master cylinder but I would assume others are similar. On the Titan, you have to remove the plunger from the master cylinder, the residual valve is internal.

http://www.championtrailers.com/remo...dual_valve.htm
Right on the money. That is exactly what I did.
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Old 09-25-2012 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by C_Spray
The TieDown bypass valve goes inline at the exit of the m/c. I had to drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole for a return fitting into the reservoir of my m/c (Titan/DICO model 6). It was pretty easy, as the m/c was cast iron. Some m/c's have a provision for this fitting.
Thank you my friend .
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Old 09-28-2012 | 04:15 PM
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Got mine yesterday. Thanks to the help above I read up on modding my master cylinder/coupler.

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Old 09-28-2012 | 10:39 PM
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Me too and me too . Thank you everybody !!











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Old 10-04-2012 | 06:07 AM
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Just installed my Tie Down kits and was way impressed. Installation was a snap and couldn't have gone much better. The new hoses I installed when rebuilding the drums previously were even long enough to use w/o issue. Waiting on my reverse lock out valve to finish the job.
One concern was the size of the 9.6" rotors I installed. One supply rep I talked to said they would over heat on a load my size. After seeing them installed I'm hoping he's wrong. They appear tiny compared to the 10" drums I removed.
My bail out will be adding a second set to the rear axle if needed.
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Old 10-04-2012 | 09:33 AM
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I got a set from West Marine for my trailer last year when i switched to discs. Best deal out there i found.
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