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Old 08-01-2002, 12:20 AM
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Old 08-01-2002, 12:33 AM
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Dave's been too busy using that Profile! He's out almost everytime we go out and they go out a lot of weeknights.

Dave lives down a subdivision we own a rental near, and he used to wave at us when we took our 25' Baja by when we lived there. Then, after a year or so (we moved by then) and were driving to the rental, and here was his new boat in the driveway (did we have some influence on his new purchase???...well, we like to think we helped out..LOL!) And when we drove by, it almost looked like the eyes follow you as you drive by it on the trailer. The paint job is SWWWEEET! We kept driving by it and checking it out feeling like we were being stalked

I don't think the pictures do that paint job justice. It's one of the best paint jobs I've seen on a boat.
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Old 08-01-2002, 01:44 AM
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I used ChromaLusion color shifting paint in the eyes so they change color as you go by. Also, both eyes are never the same color at the same time. It was a really successful effect.
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Old 08-01-2002, 10:18 AM
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hey glassdave what brand paint do you use on the boats that you paint. im also curious do you put your basecoats right on top of the gel or do you put some type of sealer or adhesion promoter down first.
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Old 08-01-2002, 10:26 AM
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im also curious do most of the boat painters take a boat apart to do graphics such as rub rails, bow rails , cleats etc. or do you tape around.? what about clearing the graphics? do you clear the intire boat from the chine up or do you just try to cover the graphics?
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Old 08-01-2002, 12:20 PM
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I'd like to know also. I have experience doing some custom work on motorcycles and cars a few years ago using laquers etc. So far I haven't had the courage to take on my boat.
 
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:16 AM
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LATER .........In response to your question above.

In my studio, very little disassembly takes place. I mostly paint for the manufacturers and we have decided that it is best to tape off the pieces that will never move, to tape around the parts that could move even a little. For instance, I leave a 1/4" tape line around the windshields and rubrails. If you were to tape directly up to them, the movement from either flexation or bumping will chip the paint that butts up to it. This will usually cause chipping or flaking and will always look bad after it has happened. By leaving the 1/4" line, it remains clean and crisp for good and never will look ragged.

Other pieces that have a silicon bead around them are taped off with either 1/8" or 1/4" tape for the same reason because the paint won't stick to the silicon in the caulk.
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:19 AM
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We clearcoat only what needs to be cleared. Sometimes the graphic needs to be fully cleared to the chine because of the fades, etc. that are in the design.

With the introduction of the polyurethane base/clear systems, the lacquer days are pretty much gone. I use lacquers only when necessary for muraling and special effects.
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Old 08-04-2002, 01:36 PM
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It would be a bit of a drive but well worth it. Dean Loucks in Niles Michigan does awsome work. He has a website at http://www.taod.org He has an on-line portfolio. Check out his work and you decide if he's what you are looking for.
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Old 08-04-2002, 03:01 PM
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What kind of clear are you guys using? Do you ever run into problems with the clear below the water line? I did some outdrives for someone once and they got milky looking after they sat in the water for awhile. Since then I have just used single stage Imron. I use DuPont bc/cc on muscle car restorations. Beautiful paint work guys. I KNOW what it takes make a peice of art like that.
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