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Multi weight oils. Good info.
I have recently been doing a lot of research on engine oils. Ive had to many dock and bar room discussions on oil, and decided to spend some time reading up. We all talk about zinc content, and other minerals and additives, but.....theres more to it than that. During all these late nights of reading and reading, I started noticing something common in all these write up's, that was common.
Its about the use of multi-weight oils. Apparently, in conventional engine oil, in order to develop a multi weight oil, they must use ''Viscosity improvers". Lets take a 20W50 oil for example. The oil must flow like a 20 weight oil at 0* Fahrenheit , and a 50 weight at 210*. Problem with oil using viscosity improvers, is that they don't do well with heat and or high load/shear situations, and eventually break down. When the oil does break down, it no longer resists thinning at temperature, and therefore that 20w50, may act like a 20w20, 20w30, etc at 210* after a few hours depending on the situation. Some articles I've read from oil engineers, is that if a multi viscosity oil must be used, try to use one with as little visc improvers as possible. Meaning, a 10w30, or 5w20, will have less than say a 20w50, or 10w40. With that being said, synthetic multiweight oils do not suffer from this. As the makeup of the oil doesn't need the viscosity improvers like a conventional dino style oil. Probably why you see synthetic 15w50, 5w50, etc. Plus they say the synthetics hold up much better with heat and do not break down as easily. To sum things up, I have read enough on this subject, to myself go back to using a straight weight conventional, without viscosity improvers. My boat engine oil will never see 0 degrees Fahrenheit, not even 32* Fahrenheit. Most day's im boating the pan temps will be ambient at startup, which should be anywhere from 75-90*. The 20w50 I was using, at those temps, probably isn't flowing like a 20 weight oil anyhow, since it was tested to flow like a 20w at 0 degrees. I know there are a lot of builders out there still recommending straight weight oil for marine engines. I just never knew why they would recommend that. I am going to attach a couple articles on this, for those who may wish to read for themselves. Grab a cup of coffee or a cold brew and check it out. Very good read. Covers a ton about oil. http://hrcak.srce.hr/file/37720 http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._slippery.aspx |
Mild
As I have said on different oil threads that for the Past 30+ years I have used straight 40 w Racing oil in all my boat motors Most of them Blower motors without any Lower end Failures, the boat I have now is going on it's 14th season this year withoout any oiling problems. So with that said I'm 100% backing your findings with real world results. Thanks for getting the info out to the members! |
I agree with you on stright weight racing oils for our boats, I use Dino but synthetic is fine if you want to speed the coin.
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That's some great information Wild Mulder!
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 3909571)
That's some great information Wild Mulder!
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Originally Posted by abones
(Post 3909544)
Mild
As I have said on different oil threads that for the Past 30+ years I have used straight 40 w Racing oil in all my boat motors Most of them Blower motors without any Lower end Failures, the boat I have now is going on it's 14th season this year withoout any oiling problems. So with that said I'm 100% backing your findings with real world results. Thanks for getting the info out to the members! |
The following group of 14 oils are ranked according to their “load carrying capacity/film strength”, or in other words, their “wear protection” performance, at 230*F. The tests were repeated multiple times for each oil, and then those results were averaged to arrive at the final psi numbers shown below. And every single oil was tested EXACTLY THE SAME. 1. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi zinc = 1669 ppm total detergent = 1618 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.0 NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use. 2. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi (.3% below no.1) zinc = 1472 ppm total detergent = 2787 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.9 3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi (2.6% below no.1) zinc = 1180 ppm total detergent = 2683 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.9 4. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi (8.2% below no.1) zinc = 1431 ppm total detergent = 2927 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio =2.0 5. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL (semi-synthetic) = 90,226 psi (13.1% below no.1) zinc = 1221 ppm total detergent = 2830 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio =2.3 6. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi (16.9% below no.1) zinc = 1247 ppm total detergent = 3134 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.5 7. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi (27.9% below no.1) zinc = 1421 ppm total detergent = 3050 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.1 8. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi (29.5% below no.1) zinc = 1325ppm total detergent = 1593 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.2 9. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi (31.3% below no.1) zinc = 1621 ppm total detergent = 2939 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.8 10. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi (31.4% below no.1) zinc = 1557 ppm total detergent = 3173 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.0 11. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi (32.4% below no.1) zinc = 1133 ppm total detergent = 1437 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.3 12. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi (36.2% below no.1) zinc = 1774 ppm total detergent = 3676 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.1 13. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi (36.9% below no.1) zinc = 1154 ppm total detergent = 1999 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio =1.1 14. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi (39.4% below no.1) zinc = 1170 ppm total detergent = 3184 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.7 ------------------------------------------ Now, in the interest of full disclosure, let’s compare the new Defy motor oil to “ALL” of the other 47 oils that I have in my database, and see how it ranks against them all. *** The higher the psi result, the higher the “Load carrying capacity/Film strength”, and the better the oil is at preventing wear. *** All oils were tested at 230* F (representative of actual running temperature). *** Multiple tests were performed on each oil, and those results were averaged to arrive at each oil's final value shown below. *** Test Result differences between oils of less than 10%, are not significant, and oils within that range can be considered approximately equivalent. *** All oil bottles were thoroughly shaken before the samples were taken. This ensured that all the additive package components were distributed uniformly throughout all the oil in the bottle, and not settled to the bottom. *** All oils are full synthetic unless otherwise specified. *** All oils are suitable for street use unless otherwise specified. Oil categories: *** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection *** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection *** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection *** Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIREABLE ********** OUTSTANDING PROTECTION ************ 1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true. zinc = 806 ppm phos = 812 ppm moly = 66 ppm 2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi zinc = 2642 ppm phos = 3489 ppm moly = 1764 ppm NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use. 3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi zinc = 801 ppm phos = 842 ppm moly = 112 ppm 4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi zinc = 824 ppm phos = 960 ppm moly = 161 ppm ******* 10% below number 1 = 104,051 psi ******** 5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi zinc = 1669 ppm phos = 1518 ppm moly = 784 ppm NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use. 6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi zinc = 606 ppm phos = 742 ppm moly = 28 ppm 7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi zinc = 1472 ppm phos = 1544 ppm moly = 3 ppm 8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi zinc = 1180 ppm phos = 1112 ppm moly = 162 ppm 9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi This one only costs $4.29 per quart at the Auto Parts Store where I bought it. zinc = 1018 ppm phos = 728 ppm moly = 161 ppm 10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi zinc = 1042 ppm phos = 857 ppm moly = 100 ppm titanium = 49 ppm 11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi zinc = 610 ppm phos = 754 ppm moly = 94 ppm 12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi zinc = 2207 ppm phos = 2052 ppm moly = 1235 ppm NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use. 13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi zinc = 742 ppm phos = 677 ppm moly = 81 ppm 14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi zinc = 877 ppm phos = 921 ppm moly = 72 ppm 15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi zinc = 818 ppm phos = 883 ppm moly = 90 ppm titanium = 44 ppm 16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 NASCAR Racing Oil = 95,543 psi zinc = 743 ppm phos = 802 ppm moly = 1125 ppm NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use. 17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD NOTE: Oil numbers 16 and 17 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same. 18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi zinc = 830 ppm phos = 791 ppm moly = 1 ppm 19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi zinc = 1431 ppm phos = 1441 ppm moly = 52 ppm 20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi zinc = 969 ppm phos = 761 ppm moly = 0 ppm 21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi zinc = 764 ppm phos = 698 ppm moly = 76 ppm 23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi zinc = 1045 ppm phos = 742 ppm moly = 0 ppm ******** 20% below number 1 = 92,490 psi ******** 24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi zinc = 992 ppm phos = 760 ppm moly = 0 ppm 25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi This one only costs $3.99 per quart at the Auto Parts Store where I bought it. zinc = 863 ppm phos = 816 ppm moly = 0 ppm 26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi zinc = 964 ppm phos = 892 ppm moly = 0 ppm 28. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL (semi-synthetic) = 90,226 psi zinc = 1221 ppm phos = 955 ppm moly = 99 ppm 29. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD ************ GOOD PROTECTION ********** 30. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,089 psi zinc = 907 ppm phos = 829 ppm moly = 56 ppm 31. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi zinc = 1247 ppm phos = 1137 ppm moly = 24 ppm 32. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 33. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi zinc = 942 ppm phos = 817 ppm moly = 0 ppm 34. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi zinc = 588 ppm phos = 697 ppm moly = 0 ppm 35. 20W50 Kendall GT-1 High Performance with liquid titanium, (conventional) API SN = 83,365 psi zinc = 991 ppm phos = 1253 ppm moly = 57 ppm titanium = 84 ppm 36. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi zinc = 890 ppm phos = 819 ppm moly = 104 ppm 37. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD ******** 30% below number 1 = 80,928 psi ******** 38. 5W30 GM's AC Delco dexos 1 (semi-synthetic) API SN = 76,501 psi zinc = 878 ppm phos = 758 ppm moly = 72 ppm **************** MODEST PROTECTION ************ 39. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi zinc = 1421 ppm phos = 1338 ppm moly = 204 ppm NOTE: This particular bottle of oil was just opened, but was out of a 3 ˝ year old case. 40. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi zinc = 1325ppm phos = 1234 ppm moly = 2 ppm 41. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi zinc = TBD phos = TBD moly = TBD 42. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi zinc = 1621 ppm phos = 1437 ppm moly = 0 ppm 43. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi zinc = 1557 ppm phos = 1651 ppm moly = 3 ppm 44. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi zinc = 1,133 ppm phos = 1,168 ppm moly = 83 ppm ******** 40% below number 1 = 69,367 psi ******** 45. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi zinc = 796 ppm phos = 830 ppm moly = 75 ppm 46. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi zinc = 1774 ppm phos = 1347 ppm moly = 189 ppm 47. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi zinc = 1154 ppm phos = 1075 ppm moly = 0 ppm 48. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi zinc = 1170 ppm phos = 1039 ppm moly = 0 ppm ******** 50% below number 1 = 57,806 psi ******** . |
Interesting.... I always noticed that when running 20w50 after putting a few hours on a fresh oil change the oil pressure at idle after a long run would progressively diminish. Semi synthetics seem to perform better than straight dino and I always assumed this had something to do with viscosity deterioration due to heat. My solution has been to top the oil levels off with Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer as needed which has worked pretty well for me.
MILD THUNDER great post! |
Im shocked at how poorly Royal Purple performed
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The idea of relying on additives (visc improvers) to protect and do their job, just scares me. In my particular engines, the idea of 20weight oil at 6000rpm under boost and heat, doesn't excite me. maybe I'll send in a sample of my Brad Penn 20w50 with about 10 hours on it, for a oil analysis to see how it held up viscosity wise.
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 3909622)
The idea of relying on additives (visc improvers) to protect and do their job, just scares me. In my particular engines, the idea of 20weight oil at 6000rpm under boost and heat, doesn't excite me. maybe I'll send in a sample of my Brad Penn 20w50 with about 10 hours on it, for a oil analysis to see how it held up viscosity wise.
Let me know how that works out. I have been running Brad Penn 20w50 for a few years now in my 3250 SS with stock power and start to notice deterioration after about 10hrs, but much less than with Merc oil |
Originally Posted by Drock78
(Post 3909619)
Im shocked at how poorly Royal Purple performed
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thanks for posting this joe,now i have a headache trying to figure out what oil i am going to use.:cartman:
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Last year I went on a Royal Purple kick . In a relatively short amount of time my boat , truck and motorcycle all started to use some oil no doubt because of thermal breakdown . Disappointing for the premium price for a supposed premium oil . I just ordered 20w50 Dominator Race Oil for the boat and 20w40 for the bike . Anxious to see how the Amsoil will hold up . Seems many guys here like it ! Mild , I did not see Amsoil Dominator in your comparison .
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 3909635)
thanks for posting this joe,now i have a headache trying to figure out what oil i am going to use.:cartman:
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Forgive me....if necessary....
I had a comp cam that I installed in a conventional 454 single center cam....along with top end upgrades....
About a week into it, I got a cyl 3 flat spot....Intake (so noticeable stumble) Removed...returned.....summit sent a second cam and I returned the first... Reinstalled......all good.....for about three weeks....stumble again.... Called summit again. They refused the claim because I told them I was using full synthetic....and that the instructions clearly stated no synthetic.." Did I get hosed, or is fullsyn too slick for conventional (non ohc) motors? |
I posted in general discussion "what oil does Mercury recommend for their 1350" I guess all they run is Mercury 25-40 blend. I used to use Mobil 1 20-50 (never had a lubrication problem) when availability went away I switched to Brad Penn. But I think I'm seeing a drop in oil pressure when hot that I never had before?
If Mercury 25-40 is good enough for their 1350 should be fine for my 1150's?? One of these?? http://www.mercurymarine.com/parts-a...nd-mercruiser/ or http://www.mercurymarine.com/parts-a.../blend-verado/ |
For the record, I promise to take Joe out to dinner this week and buy him enough Kettle One that will stop him from posting as if he has no hobbies nor friends. As it was informational, it is still totally inappropriate for a Friday!! Joe, you are acting like it is cold and flooding or something, get a grip on it will ya!!! Lol
For the record, I always used 20w 50 per my mechanic and had 400+ hours per boat and never a motor problem, snowmobiles were a different discussion, who knew you couldn't tape it wide open for 20 miles?? |
I wonder where Amsoil Dominator falls?
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Why in the boating scenario would a straight grade say 40 weight not be a better choice thasn the multi viscosity? Im thinking I may try it and see how it performs. I have always run the VR-1 Valvoline dino but usually in the 20-50 weight.
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Originally Posted by Drock78
(Post 3909619)
Im shocked at how poorly Royal Purple performed
|
Originally Posted by commandersander
(Post 3909658)
I had a comp cam that I installed in a conventional 454 single center cam....along with top end upgrades....
About a week into it, I got a cyl 3 flat spot....Intake (so noticeable stumble) Removed...returned.....summit sent a second cam and I returned the first... Reinstalled......all good.....for about three weeks....stumble again.... Called summit again. They refused the claim because I told them I was using full synthetic....and that the instructions clearly stated no synthetic.." Did I get hosed, or is fullsyn too slick for conventional (non ohc) motors? |
We have been using the Amsoil in the Race Boat and ver happy with it.
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[QUOTE=hammer01;3909855]For the record, I promise to take Joe out to dinner this week and buy him enough Kettle One that will stop him from posting as if he has no hobbies nor friends. As it was informational, it is still totally inappropriate for a Friday!! Joe, you are acting like it is cold and flooding or something, get a grip on it will ya!!! Lol
QUOTE] Dik. Its was Saturday btw. I was resting up for a night out at the casino with your uncle who was asking about ya. My buddy was boxing there. TKO in the 3rd round. There was also a amateur bout in the bathroom there, which resulted in a TKO in the first round. Then back to the bar, for lots of ketel one. No oil talk last night lol |
Awesome. For the record, my Loto mechanic used Valvoline 20w50 and said after 25 yrs it never failed him. He said all the other high $ oils could never replace consistent maintenance.
Curious, what do the Sterling race motors and comparable motors use? |
In my quest for a quality oil, and from what I understand, synthetics do not breakdown like a conventional, when it comes to the viscosity improver additives. Mainly because synthetics don't need as much additive.
So, I was about to get some straight 50w dino oil, when I came across a DEAL! Oreillys auto parts had Valvoline VR1 FULL SYNTHETIC 20w50 on clearance. Reg price $9.49 per quart. On clearance for $3.49 a quart. WTF, you cant barely even buy walmart supertech dino oil for that price. So I hit up all the local oreillys buying whatever they had in each store, which wasn't much. After hitting about 6 stores, I ended up with 43 quarts of the 20w50, and bought 15 qts of the 10w30 for my dually. At least I have enough for 2 oil changes on the boat, and 2 on the truck for now. They have it in 10w30 and 20w50. This is the stuff I bought http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...r-oil/20w-50/8 |
Looks like a very strong oil. According to the test of film strength I posted on page 1 of this thread, this oil ranked about the best. So did the conventional VR1.
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I use the VR1 Race oil 30W dino.
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf The 20w 50 is on sale at Oreillys but there isnt any available in detroit area. Wannabe |
Always enjoy the oil threads. -Here a cut & paste of a post I made back in '06 about Brad Penn.
I'll share my experiences with Brad Penn oil. Up until last summer (2005) I had been running Pennzoil 20-50 (engine builders recommendation) I change my oil every 10 hrs and it seemed to work pretty well, no oil pressure issues, oil temps @230 after an occasional hard run 260 (measured before the cooler) Toward the end of last season I had switched to Brad Penn 20-50 and was not very impressed to say the least. In June I trailered over to Lake Winnipesaukee for Laconia weekend.I had just done a fresh oil change for the trip. We did a lot of boating the first couple days. After three days of running Brad Penn (8 hrs run time) I noticed a loss of oil pressure. My boat normally runs about 60 lbs after warm up while cruising. We were cruising along at no more than 4000 rpm when I noticed the oil pressure dropping. It dropped to 40 lbs, then 30 lbs, I backed down to 3500 and pressure dropped to 20 lbs. I thought It was engine trouble and stopped for a while. Upon restart, oil pressure returned to normal, 60 psi but soon dropped back to 20 after temps warmed up to normal. It appears that the Brad Penn oil was all done at 8 hrs and was breaking down at less than 220 degrees oil temp. I've since changed to Mobil 1 (V-Twin) and all has been fine since. The Mobil oil seems to be pretty consistent, no pressure fluctuations at all and more oil pressure. Take it for what it's worth, just my personal experience. Kurt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last edited by Biggus; 09-11-2006 at 09:06 AM |
Joe, Awesome work, I've been running Mobil 1 15W50 Syn. for years and I'm shocked where it ended up on that list. I've never had any issues and have a stock pile of it so I will continue to run it for now.
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I feel like I'm in the middle of a TV commercial! "They couldn't write it on the internet if it wasn't true. Who said that? THE INTERNET". Seriously where did this information come from? This thread is a pile of stupid. There is not one accurate bit of information about oil contained within it. This type of thing is all over the internet. Not even sure what the “psi rating” in that long (obviously copied from an oil brand’s website) list of oils is about. What test? What equipment? What is the pass/fail criteria? It would take a complete re-write of the entire thread to make it actually true and meaningful.
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Originally Posted by benjen
(Post 3910742)
I feel like I'm in the middle of a TV commercial! "They couldn't write it on the internet if it wasn't true. Who said that? THE INTERNET". Seriously where did this information come from? This thread is a pile of stupid. There is not one accurate bit of information about oil contained within it. This type of thing is all over the internet. Not even sure what the “psi rating” in that long (obviously copied from an oil brand’s website) list of oils is about. What test? What equipment? What is the pass/fail criteria? It would take a complete re-write of the entire thread to make it actually true and meaningful.
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Originally Posted by benjen
(Post 3910742)
I feel like I'm in the middle of a TV commercial! "They couldn't write it on the internet if it wasn't true. Who said that? THE INTERNET". Seriously where did this information come from? This thread is a pile of stupid. There is not one accurate bit of information about oil contained within it. This type of thing is all over the internet. Not even sure what the “psi rating” in that long (obviously copied from an oil brand’s website) list of oils is about. What test? What equipment? What is the pass/fail criteria? It would take a complete re-write of the entire thread to make it actually true and meaningful.
|
I'm not questioning the "testimonials". You are right. Unless something is seriously wrong most of us will choose the oil we want and will be satisfied. It's the list of the 14 oils that has zero merit/back up.
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Originally Posted by benjen
(Post 3910742)
I feel like I'm in the middle of a TV commercial! "They couldn't write it on the internet if it wasn't true. Who said that? THE INTERNET". Seriously where did this information come from? This thread is a pile of stupid. There is not one accurate bit of information about oil contained within it. This type of thing is all over the internet. Not even sure what the “psi rating” in that long (obviously copied from an oil brand’s website) list of oils is about. What test? What equipment? What is the pass/fail criteria? It would take a complete re-write of the entire thread to make it actually true and meaningful.
The test I posted up was performed by ALS Tribology (formerly Staveley Labs) in Sparks, Nevada. http://webtrieve.alstribology.com/ I agree the internet can be a pile of crap, it can also be a wealth of information. Personally, being a consumer, i'd much rather rely on information such as I posted, rather than listening to some Jerkoff at the auto parts store, or some local gearhead who swears STP oil treatment is the way to go, because he been using it since 1962 in his engine and all is well. So, let me ask you toughguy, have you taken the time to read the links I posted up? Neither article was written by a vendor, nor a specific company. It was a general scientific breadown of how engine oils are made up. The purpose of this, was to educate. If you have a better way to educate myself, or anyone else on this thread, feel free to post up some information. |
I'm not signing up or whatever I need to do to read the ALS article. Let me just ask you. Does ALS answer the questions I raised concerning the test, the equipment, the pass/fail criteria?
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Originally Posted by benjen
(Post 3910778)
I'm not signing up or whatever I need to do to read the ALS article. Let me just ask you. Does ALS answer the questions I raised concerning the test, the equipment, the pass/fail criteria?
Here is a more specific link to where I originally found that particular test results. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...test-data.html |
pay no attention joe,some people just dont get it,i found it a good educational read,thanks for taking the time to do the research and sharing it with us.:Score-101010:
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Yes Joe Thanks for posting and sharing!!
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 3910787)
pay no attention joe,some people just dont get it,i found it a good educational read,thanks for taking the time to do the research and sharing it with us.:Score-101010:
Its funny how I started the thread, and mentioned viscosity improvers, and their downside to the engine oil makeup, especially in dino oil. How the oil can thin out over time once it breaks down. Then several members backed that up, stating how after a certain amount of hours, their oil pressures are down a bit using certain multi weight dino. Then with a fresh oil change, its back up again. HMM, I guess that's all BS. I don't have a favorite oil. If I want a 50w oil at 210*, that's what I want the oil to be. Whether its at 1 hour of use or 10 hours of use. Kind of like the whole rumor that's been floating around oso for years, on using synthetics causing the roller wheel on the lifter to skid across the cam lobe and ruin the cam. Well, then how can about every automotive engine made these days utilizes roller lifters, and recommends synthetic oil, or even comes shipped with it. Facts are facts, rumors are rumors, and theorys are theorys. I don't have a oil laboratory in my garage. Unfortunatly, i'll have to due some due diligence to get the information. Sorry if I wasted your time with meaningless internet hype Benny! |
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