Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > General Discussion > General Boating Discussion
Baja 272 w/ 502EFI won't spin over 4500rpm with Mirage Plus 23 >

Baja 272 w/ 502EFI won't spin over 4500rpm with Mirage Plus 23

Notices

Baja 272 w/ 502EFI won't spin over 4500rpm with Mirage Plus 23

Old 08-04-2013, 09:20 PM
  #11  
VIP Member
VIP Member
 
Ebay Ed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

if you do not put the computer in service mode when setting the timing you will junk your engine unfortunately i know this the hard way had a major brain fart a few years ago
__________________
www.bajaboatowners.com
Ebay Ed is offline  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:27 AM
  #12  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by articfriends
You did a tune up because the wires were ARCING?? I would change the cap, rotor ,plugs and check the timing if you haven't as they may be all fouled out IF it was that bad. Do a compression check while you are changing the plugs, you might have a few cylinders just along for the ride and if timing is retarded it might really need a timing chain and or distributor gear. When you did this tuneup did you have the cap off distributor, the 272 Bajas have a problem with water dripping directly on the distributor (rots inside) and coil when people come in and out of the boat swimming and this has caused a lot of problems on mine. The computer isn't going to tell you a whole lot as it doesn't have a 02 sensor or fuel pressure transducer, it will only show a few simple fault codes and they are rarely the cause of major loss of top speed, Smitty
The wires were shot, you could see them arcing off each other at night!!! I had the cap and rotor changed with the wires, he didn't do the plugs but said they looked fine. He also checked the timing. I noticed the coil is loose in its housing, so I'm going to replace it. They are going to check the distributor, replace the cap and rotor again, new plugs, and do a compression test.

I'm hoping I can run it easy for the rest of the season and refresh the top end over the winter.
BAZINGA is offline  
Old 08-29-2013, 06:42 PM
  #13  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well, I did a compression check. #2 has 20psi, #4 has 25psi. It's coming out after this weekend for a teardown. The rest varied from 75-130 psi. Time for a refresh.

I'm looking for opinions on what to do while I'm in there. I would like to build it up a little bit, but I don't want to lose driveability. Maybe 500HP? Or should I just do a refresh to what it was when it was new? I would be happy (for now) with high 60's.

Thanks!
BAZINGA is offline  
Old 08-29-2013, 07:22 PM
  #14  
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,064
Received 61 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

There are a lot of builders that have a tune, cam, and head work package to make 525HP or so. Basic combo that doesn't decrease engine life.... too much anyway. They will want you to upgrade fuel system and manifolds while you are at it.

See if you can find a take off extrude honed intake.
TxHawk is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.