I have a switch for the new GPS that is unmarked. I HAVE TO HAVE that eject switch for that!

Got the switch from new wire marine. great people to do buisness with,

Got the rest of the dash stuff mounted, gps, steering, gps antenna, compass, igntion and teather. got the trim screwed in under the dash. Also got bilge stuff mounted. Amp, bilge lights, blower, batt. switch. One more day of prep and I will be ready to string wire.

So, in wiring the boat I got to thinking... With my offroad racing background, you need to build systems that will get you home no matter what goes wrong. So I did my best to split the electrical system into 2 parts. The main power coming off the merc 9/10 pin harness only powers the ignition and gauges with its own ground, The ignition and gauges are fed by a blue seas 6 gang fusebox with negative bus bar, also the circuit breaker on the motor. The fusebox is mounted behind the dash.

For the accessories (stereo, lights, bilge pump etc) I ran a separate 10 ga. power and ground wire from the battery switch (going directly from the battery switch to a 50 amp merc breaker) then to the front of the boat with the ground terminating at the battery. This feeds a 12 gang blue seas fuse box with neg. bus bar inside the console then to the switches.

This should isolate the 2 separate systems somewhat. The stereo amp has a separate feed from the battery switch with a 60 amp merc breaker inline. The auto bilge pump/float switch is ran directly (fused) and grounded directly from the deep cycle battery.

Sound good? or am I over thinking/rigging things?

Getting closer. Threw power to it for the first time.. Nothing went POOF, thats a good sign!!! test bilge pump, bilge lights, courtesy lights, chart plotter, nav lights, azimuth, blower so far and everything is working first try. Stereo cranks. Water test in 2 weeks.

Good job Phrags . Time to enjoy the fruits of yourn labor .

Trim stick heads up indicators... no provission for mounting them on my lencos, so time to do some fabbing. The cable holders on the cylinders are modified billet bosch fuel pump mounts. Things got a little interesting because I replaced one the actuators last summer. They have slightly different measurements and travel so each side had to be set up a little differently. Goy it figured out so that there is less than a 1/4 in difference in travel. Drilling the stainless tabs was a chore. First 3 holes went pretty easy, on the last hole my pilot bit was dulling and work hardened it. that hole took 3 hours... This weekend I make a trip to the hardware store for proper length fasteners.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]524535[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]524536[/ATTACH]

Looking great!!! Tonight is the first time I have seen this thread!

3 hours! you need to visit HF for 2 or 3 sets of cheap drill bits and then get a can of tap-magic from your nut and bolt vendor.

Your project is looking awesome btw

I pretty much went thru my entire set of HF bits, either broke them or dulled them...

cool sit down makover!