s022mag

Yes, I still need that issue resolved. If the HPF sensor kicks on because of heat, wouldn't the system start back up after it cools? We tried it a day later and it went straight to HPF, thats why I think it is the sensor. Not sure where it is or how to replace it.

kidturbo

s022mag; I saw you out on Buckeye Lake Sunday. Good looking Donzi, especially running in that washing machine wake pool.

I've found parts on a boat trailer need to be checked more than a boat itself most of the time. Even then, stuff breaks for no good reason. Last month before heading to FL I checked and repacked all my wheel bearings. Then took a 20 mile test run to check for heat issues. Everything looked fine, until I left the next day and stopped to spay off the truck just 15 miles from home. Saw grease on a wheel and thought it came from a bearing buddy cap. Nope, the freaking hub had cracked in half between inner and outer bearing races...

Pulled into local parts store and tore it apart. Mine uses the 5-lug Kodiak disk bake setup, and we searched the boxes for a possible rotor/hub match to no avail. It was a Sunday evening, so I dropped the trailer and drove 35 miles to a guys shop I know who has hundreds of utility trailers and parts. Luckily he was home, but didn't have disk brake hub either. What he did have was a pile of new blank "take off" hubs from doing 5 to 8 lug conversions. $25 for one ready to bolt on with bearings and seal installed. Had to fab a wedge for the caliper to keep it from blowing the piston out, but she made it 2200 miles without further trouble. Finally received the new rotor/hub last week. But I'll keep that handy $25 hub assembly in the tool box for a road side hot spare, just in case...

offshorexcursion

iTrader: (5)

Once you start having bearing issues its hard to get rid of them. The spindles could be damaged along with the races inside the hub. Don't pump grease into them in the future and expect them to last. All you will do is blow the seals out. Nothing beats taking them apart, cleaning, inspecting, and repacking. Once a year is smart but If I was you I would re do the entire trailer after the next few hauls to see if there are still problems. My guess is the bearing issues are not going to stop. Something about all that heat when they do go warps the hubs also and it just seems like a axle with a bad bearing is never the same again...........

Good luck

frickstyle

Can somebody throw up some basic trailer maintenance ground rules? I understand salt vs. fresh and amount of times into the water have a big factor. Seems like you guys are replacing bearings every 50 miles.... kidding.

CNC

Has anyone found one flavor of grease that works better than another?

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Whole thread on it:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...ring-lube.html

Lucas and Mystik mentioned multiple times.

fastdonzi

Also, Do Not Pack the whole Hub full of Grease, You only need the Cone assy full on the inboard & outboard ends of the hub, leave the center between the cones empty. if you fill that whole cavity you'll make a lot of heat, which will cause the seals to fail, which will allow grease out & water in. It's a fine art getting everything right

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I have found that to be opposite....and my spindles have fitting on the inside that pushes grease from back and out the front filling whole space up or it would not lube front bearing...

dsparis

Oil bath hubs http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ailer+Hub+Kits

s022mag

I put grease on everything I just don't cake it on. I've heard that too much will build up heat. The bearings assume build heat and the grease will probably expand so I would want there to be some room for that.