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Aluminum trailers

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Old 08-24-2002, 01:48 PM
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Default Aluminum trailers

I've read 26Sonic's inquiry about Owens Bros. Trailers but I would
like some more info about aluminum trailers.
I'm towing a Sunsation Rocket on an Eagle trailer. One concern
is that I am launching in salt water and the tubular steel is rusting. The trailer and the boat were bought together used.
The other concern is the my tow vehicle is a 1999 f-150 with
a 4.6L and towing package. When towing in the hills of Maryland,
Pennsylvania, etc the truck really struggles. A new truck is not an option. I think I can save about 500-600 lbs with an aluminum
trailer.
My questions about aluminum trailers are:
1. Is it true that welded construction is heavier that bolted? Are
there definite advantages/disadvantages?
2. Is there anything that can be done to guarantee that it
won't float. Would galvanized wheels be a solution.
3. Are there any manufacturers in the Mid Atlantic area.

If I have to add weight to keep it from floating I would be giving up some of my weight reduction.

Thanks
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:21 PM
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Have had both types.

1. Welded is probably stronger. Plus, you don't have dissimilar metals together [aluminum and steel bolts]

2. I tried galv. wheels. Too much floatation with the tires and the surface of the aluminum "I" beams.

3. I added a PVC pipe I think it was 3 or 4 inch. Filled it with water till it stopped the floating. But, you're loosing your weight advantage. I ended up taking it off and just putting up with the floating trailer.
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:44 PM
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I also read of a guy who solved his floating trailer problems by adding an "anti-floating-sway-bar" to his truck/trailer. He allowed his trailer to float, but devised a bar/pipe that fastened to one of the trailer i-beams as they widened, and also fastened to the bumper of his truck. It was only installed when retrieving. The trailer still floated, but at least it stayed straight, (which is the biggest problem with the floating, it moves to the other side of the ramp). You can also alleviate the trailer from getting too far out of whack, by adding verticle guide poles the the stern of the trailer, have them tight enough on the rub rail of the boat so that it centers the boat on the trailer & vice versa. You are just better off getting a trailer that does not float. Check out American High Performance. Fine trailer, and does not float. Stay away from Rocket, at all cost. I literally had to tie the trailer to the flipping dock with a small string that would snap with the weight of the boat, to keep it straight before I added the dumbells.

Last edited by Sydwayz; 08-24-2002 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:54 PM
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Also make sure the end caps are off of all square tube cross members. This will allow them to fill with water, and not trap air. Drill a few small holes in the bottom if not already there, to allow them to drain. This will allow these to fill with water too. My fenders even trapped air, so I made sure to drill small holes at the top/front of them to allow the trapped air to escape when backing into the water.

Last edited by Sydwayz; 08-27-2002 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 08-25-2002, 09:15 AM
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I have a 3 year old 26-28' aluminum I beam under my 26' Baha Mach1, tandem galvanized wheels and bunks. No float problems at all. All stainless Ubolt package and disk brakes and torsion. Other than spraying the disk brakes with fresh water and lubing with crc, no rust, different metal deteriotion or any issues. I love it!! Leaf springs will rust, non stainless package will have rusty Ubolts and non disks will rust, even with the flush kits if you going in Salt..... The extras will keep your trailer looking great!!! Mine weighs in at 860 pounds, not welded. I always go with a trailer marked for 2 feet bigger than the boat so the boat fits on better visually, I'm not one for it hanging way off the back, but then I get a little more tounge weight. Tows perfect and looks great with the trailer under the entire boat. Bunks hang off the back about a foot only. Normally it's out the back much further. The florida manufacturers usually charge 200-250 bucks to have it shipped up North to me in PA.

What size boat do you have? I've got a 29-21 loaded brand new trailer for sale in OSO classifieds.

Last edited by East Coast B; 08-25-2002 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 08-25-2002, 10:32 AM
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Triple axle aluminum trailers are more suseptible to floating than two axle. I have a 1995 Magictilt I beam aluminum trailer with aluminum wheels and massive wooden bunk for my 272 Formula and no float problem. My cousin and a friend with triples both have float problems. Those two extra tires filled with air make wonderful floats
As for PVC pipe filled with water .That only adds weight on land Once in the water , its filled with water , which is the same weight as whats outside the pipe. So the only weight your adding is the weight of the plastic pipe. Fill it with lead shot or perhaps some re-bar and now you're adding some weight
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Old 08-25-2002, 10:48 AM
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Would a weight distibuting hitch help? I would think it would help to keep it straight and force weight from the back end of the pickup to the trailer.

I've got ont but I've also got a steel trailer. It just seems like it would work.
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Old 08-26-2002, 07:09 PM
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Thanks for the input. East Coast B my boat is only 24'. I tried to send you a PM. Did you get it? Curious to know the make of
your trailer for your Baja.
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Old 08-27-2002, 07:00 AM
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Yes, got your PM. Mine is a Fast Load trailer out of South Florida.
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Old 08-27-2002, 07:19 AM
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now tell me how adding the same elemet to what you are in is going to add weight???...the only weight you added is the damn pipe when in the water filled with water....LOL
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