Adding a Pad with a notch and steps
#31
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If you got it all ripped out and grinded you are 70 percent of the way there.
Redoing the stringers and transom is easy as 123 especially with Glassdaves threads and advice for you to follow.
I don't mind the glassinf one bit but a whole day of being in a tyvec suit grinding is waiting for the weather to cool off here in SW Florida . Thinking about the 1st cold snap we get like in Nov or December.
Good luck with your project.
PS They seem a little uptight on that design forum , seems a lot more book smarts than doing smarts there . Though I really do enjoy the input that some of the designer builders are taking the time to do like Richard Woods.
What you got going with all those boats are you trying to start your own Naval Fleet?
Last edited by tommymonza; 08-18-2014 at 03:12 PM.
#32
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Raise the X and add a small pad IMO.. The steps or notch is too much, esp on a boat that is that small. With enough power it will hang it self in the air..
John jr
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#33
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Yup. Many of these small boats that run good even with stock power, pick up 5-7mph by raising X or getting an Alpha SS.
Some smaller boats have no room to raise the outdrive and/or engine so they must be in search of an SS.
The boat I reference witrh the above motor build has a lower propshaft depth of 7+" below bottom of back of boat.
That is deep and obviously drags it's azz ! Should have an SS on it by September. We'll see what happens.
Some smaller boats have no room to raise the outdrive and/or engine so they must be in search of an SS.
The boat I reference witrh the above motor build has a lower propshaft depth of 7+" below bottom of back of boat.
That is deep and obviously drags it's azz ! Should have an SS on it by September. We'll see what happens.
#34
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Thanks but no thanks LOL I have too many projects and not enough Dough as it is.
If you got it all ripped out and grinded you are 70 percent of the way there.
Redoing the stringers and transom is easy as 123 especially with Glassdaves threads and advice for you to follow.
I don't mind the glassinf one bit but a whole day of being in a tyvec suit grinding is waiting for the weather to cool off here in SW Florida . Thinking about the 1st cold snap we get like in Nov or December.
Good luck with your project.
PS They seem a little uptight on that design forum , seems a lot more book smarts than doing smarts there . Though I really do enjoy the input that some of the designer builders are taking the time to do like Richard Woods.
What you got going with all those boats are you trying to start your own Naval Fleet?
If you got it all ripped out and grinded you are 70 percent of the way there.
Redoing the stringers and transom is easy as 123 especially with Glassdaves threads and advice for you to follow.
I don't mind the glassinf one bit but a whole day of being in a tyvec suit grinding is waiting for the weather to cool off here in SW Florida . Thinking about the 1st cold snap we get like in Nov or December.
Good luck with your project.
PS They seem a little uptight on that design forum , seems a lot more book smarts than doing smarts there . Though I really do enjoy the input that some of the designer builders are taking the time to do like Richard Woods.
What you got going with all those boats are you trying to start your own Naval Fleet?
Last edited by payuppsucker; 08-18-2014 at 04:27 PM.
#35
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Yea I took the time a few weeks ago to take an exact level measurement and it is set at dead stock depth which is if i remember is 7 1/4 or 7 3/4. Anyways I guess a SS is 3 inches shorter according to the guys on Donzi.net.
I can get 2 1/2 before my CMI's will cut into the rubrail and that does not leave me room for exhaust trim rings
I can get 2 1/2 before my CMI's will cut into the rubrail and that does not leave me room for exhaust trim rings
#36
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Nah, using two on a weekly basis and working on the other two. The Tahiti jet, (1969), is a bone stock original that I bought from the original owner three ago, original interior, carpet, even down to the tires on the trailer. It has a L-88 427 in it installed for Tahiti by Aero Marine when new. The Raysoncraft's original tri power Pontiac is at the machine shop. It's a 1962 with a pretty extenesive racing history, mostly taking place at Parker. All it needs is the motor and it's done. The Angler CC is completely apart and I've procrastinated for over a year as I've never done the transom/stringer job. Was originally going to do the pour in transom buy changed my mind. I'll have to look up Glassdaves threads on that. I enjoy a reading on the design forum, some really good stuff on there. Uptight is a pretty conservative description of some on there but I still enjoy reading. I've noticed you hold your own with them however and you couldn't BS that bunch.
#37
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I'll take some pics, need some anyway just to have. I like the old stuff too. The jet really is a unique piece just because of it's originality and low time. Bought it on Ebay sight unseen and it turned out to be nicer than described. I feel really fortunate to own it.
#38
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I dont think the aeration is going to do much, getting the pad angle and size right is probably more important, Im also thinking about the Thomas's pantera thread, I believe he lengthened the inner strakes giving the boat a little more lift aft. That might help stability a bit too because if you get to much boat out of the water its liable too become a chine walking biotch.
Aerating the what little contact area on the pad there is might also make it like trying to balance on marbles... just random thoughts.
Aerating the what little contact area on the pad there is might also make it like trying to balance on marbles... just random thoughts.
#40
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Never know if you don't try I guess.
Be nice to have a valve and be able to gradually introduce some air under the pad as you go to feel the affects.
From what I have seen adding length to the inner strakes seems to bury the bow on most of the threads i have read where they have done the mod.. The boat has a nice stance and carries the bow real nice with only a little positive trim now.
So if I can replicate the surface between the bow and the stern as it is riding on now but bump it down an inch and flatten into a pad I hope to have the fore to aft running attitude it had stay the same . Good chance the stern is going to have soo much more lift on the pad that the bow will come down significantly though i think ... Hate to lose all that bow lift.
What do you think ? Boat doesn't have to bad of stance at 58 with little trim for being designed and built by a 18 year old kid with no former training.
Be nice to have a valve and be able to gradually introduce some air under the pad as you go to feel the affects.
From what I have seen adding length to the inner strakes seems to bury the bow on most of the threads i have read where they have done the mod.. The boat has a nice stance and carries the bow real nice with only a little positive trim now.
So if I can replicate the surface between the bow and the stern as it is riding on now but bump it down an inch and flatten into a pad I hope to have the fore to aft running attitude it had stay the same . Good chance the stern is going to have soo much more lift on the pad that the bow will come down significantly though i think ... Hate to lose all that bow lift.
What do you think ? Boat doesn't have to bad of stance at 58 with little trim for being designed and built by a 18 year old kid with no former training.
Last edited by tommymonza; 08-18-2014 at 11:20 PM.