I have manley rods with ARP2000 bolts. Before that, had the GM 7/16 rods, with ARP wave loc bolts. Had good luck running both rods.

Here is what Manley states about their H beams

Big Block Chevrolet

H-Beam Rods

Manufactured from 4340 forgings

Heat treated, stress relieved, shot peened and 100% individually magnafluxed

Weight matched sets +
1.5 grams

Cap fasteners are premium 7/16" ARP 8740 or optional ARP 2000 cap screws

Horsepower range for these rods: 900 HP (ARP 8740), 1200 HP (ARP 2000)
P/N 14060-8 is NHRA Legal for Stock & Super Stock

Horsepower range could be exceeded depending upon rpm, stroke, piston weight and power adders

Make sure you have the new bolts with the rods, when they resize them at the machine shop. You dont wanna just install the new bolts on the rods.

Right, done many engines all that kind if stuff is done by machinist, and checked no matter what...

I have read the numerous post on all the different rods spoken about here and everyone has their own preference. I have run BBC stock rods with a 7/16 rod bolt on 510 CID NA engines turning 5800-6000 RPMs, no bushed pin. New ARP bolts, with the rods resized, clean up the forging edges and balance the rods +/- 2 grams, this is a 630 HP. Without a doubt; Full Force, lost a rod bearing for either, improper clearance, rod bearing bore not being concentric.
If you check some of the lower cost rods, you will find when you stretch the rod bolts to their spec. the rod housing bore will become distorted, this can only be seen easily using your rod gauge on your hone, since you are supporting the rod and rotating it. Using a bore gauge will sometimes indicate out of round if excessive. Other important issues to look at is bearing crush, if the bearing is installed in a housing bore with being on the + side or larger, bearing crush will be jeopardised. I have seen; so called engine builders; take a new rod and ruin it by increasing the housing bore, just to gain bearing clearance instead of using a HX bearing. This can go the opposite direction having to much crush, causing the WEDGE OF OIL to be lost. The bearing and journal are separated and cooled by the wedge of oil, that oil has to be able to flow out of the bearing. You can also need clearance between the 2 rods and the crank to properly flow oil out. Many times this can be over- looked, so when you have a failure, find out why and not just look at a bolt failure or lower cost parts, if you have the best of everything how do you blame parts?
Some of the lower priced rods will have a softer pin bushing, over time in a marine engine you will see that become out of round. Callies Compstar rods without question are machined properly for the bolt stretch and include a Ampco 45 bushing. When using a Oliver, Carrillo rod you would expect high quality. Buy some of the rod bolts from Carrillo; such as the H-11 or the
multiphase CARR bolts and see how much they set you back.
If all aspects of the engine in relation to machining are correct, meaning straight and concentric, you can utilize tighter bearing clearances and lower oil pressures. Just look at some of the HI RPM engines out there that are not running 10-12 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 RPMS.
Lets not also forget, the unheard noise of detonation that isn't severe enough to take the ring lang out, if the piston is of a 2618 material. This will pound the rod bearing upper half without you knowing it until it's to late.
Just my 2 cents!!!!

Great info mark. I suggested detonation as a possible cause in his other thread, but he says there's no way it was detonation. Which not sure how you can't tell if the engine isn't tore down yet

Thanks, all things to look at, I leave the super tech stuff to my machinist and 20 years never had a failure on parts he did for me, I will bring up concerns normally he has these kinds if things covered, beyond my Abilitys !

These engines have always been rich and fuel has been sufficient, I could be wrong and you may be right swing the piston will tell me when I tear it apart, plugs always been super dark and never came close before, like I said I may be wrong we will see

What about Ohio Crankshaft?

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevybb_cranks.html

So you think; being rich controls detonation?

Lets open another discussion on ; OIL DILUTION

Also, consider this......unless you run the engines up to where you were when you had issue and shut them off at that rpm and read your plugs, you aren't getting a true indication of AFR.
Idling back through a "no wake" zone and docking will alter your plug reading considerably.

I agree, that just running "rich" to control detonation is bad policy.