Tore up a drive today....

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09-21-2014, 02:04 AM

#11

buck35

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Looks like a poor surface weld to me.

09-21-2014, 06:19 AM

#12

Jpzaluski

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When we weld them I grind the skeg and case to a V to ensure a deep, strong joint. Even then the cases are large heat sinks and with no preheat require 250-275 amps to get the party started.

09-21-2014, 06:56 AM

#13

brian41

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Should have brought it north.......always cheaper to do it right the first time.

09-21-2014, 01:25 PM

#14

phragle

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The guy HAD a great reputation,,, and has done several skegs around here.. Keeping my eyes open for a shorty deal. REally kicking myself for not picking up one of the two that went for under 1500 lately.

09-21-2014, 01:32 PM

#15

dsmawd350

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Shorty for 1500 damn where at lol

09-21-2014, 03:28 PM

#16

Jonesyfxr

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BUP

it is best to have skegs rewelded not from straight cuts but cut outs like shark teeth marks ( VVV ) if you have room below the bullet to make V cuts and weld that up to the matched V cuts in the skeg.. It makes for a lot stronger repair plus easier to make the skeg straight when welding the repair..

VVV
VVV

Not
______
______

If I lost anyone I can send pics as to what I'm talking about so you can post them up here. .

Anybody who welds will know what you mean. The V adds more surface area to be welded, hence a stronger weld.

09-21-2014, 03:35 PM

#17

Cole2534

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Absolutely. Any butt joint thicker than sheet metal needs a bevel.

09-21-2014, 06:46 PM

#18

Eliminatorshane

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I'd be pissd! No heat or penetration. When we welds kegs we also cut a filet in them to fill from inside out. Also I would tell the guy he owes you a prop . I've seen them break and take out prop then take chunk out of cav plate.