So, I'm trying to fix an overheating issue. However that's another thread.

Has any used this, INSIDE an engine? Metalrescue.com

I have an 1990 OMC 460, 600 hours, fresh water only. Nice coating of rust inside all of it. Raw water cooled.

So, part of my fixing up the cooling system (In addition to, new raw water pump, new belts, new thermostat, checking hoses, new a lot of parts,,,) (still overheats).

Anyway. I'm soaking the thermostat housing in this stuff, and DAMN it seems to work. I'm also removing the exhaust elbows, and plan to soak them as well.

SO, before I put the housing back on, this spring (since this stuff freezes), I was thinking I'd drop 2-3 gallons into the block. Let it sit 24-48 hours, then run it on a hose to get any rust I can OUT of the block.

Before using this stuff, I drilled out the t-stat housing water outlets (that go to the manifolds). They had rusted around 20% shut. This just allows water to flow more easily, I am not bypassing the t-stat.

The overheat issue is such that the cooling system appear JUST shy of able to keep the temp in check. It rises quickly to dead center of the gauge. Then during use takes about 5-6 miles to SLOWLY.... SLOWLY... rise, rise, rise, the I back it down to idle where it drops to center in 3 min. So I feel like it's just shy of being able to handle the heat. When in lake, running at idle the raw water pump sends a water column 4-6" in the air. (How to test according to manual).

Also did new spark plugs for fun. And new exhaust (rubber) connectors. The 25 year old ones were looking dry.

Anyone else tried this stuff? Or am I going to ruin my block?

I'd like to check my recirculating pump as the repair manual says to, however I've been unable to find a replacement one or gasket, so if I can't at least get the gasket, I don't want to remove it... I love my boat and this big dumb engine, whose only issues in 25 years has been 1. Starter, and now this overheating.

Haven't used it but I wouldn't put it in the block. Stuff is probably some kind of acid. While it will remove rust it will also damage seals and gaskets.

Google ford 460 water pump gasket
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...vJoaAryE8P8HAQ

Google ford 460 water pump
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ine-club-wagon

I used econoline but could also use 250 truck

I found those, and some at Rock auto, but I was under the impression the marine version used a different water pump..?

It's not acidic. It didn't even remove the sticker on a part I used it on. It's safe to the touch and water soluable. Also, the packaging says safe on seals, gaskets, etc.

It definitely removes rust. I'm seriously thinking of doing this, this spring. Stuff isnt cheap at $25 a gallon but how else could you ever clean inside a block?

I've put my hands in it. No gloves. No effect. Feels like water with a bit of soap in it.

I'm going to email the company. See what they think. It has to be used above 68. So I'll have to run the engine to heat the block. Then drain it. Then fill with this stuff. Then flush it out. But since my boat is already winterized... That would either be a lot of work... Or I'll do it in the spring... Leaving me time to see what the company thinks of my plan.

New plan. Since I have to run it anyway, I'll test drive it this spring and if it's still overheating dive into this further. Right now the exhaust elbow are soak in overnight. The only downside is it's taken the shine off the paint, but all the rust inside the channels is gone.

If it still overheats next season I'll also dive into the water pump. I found no obstructions in the elbows.

CLR does quite well too. Let it ferment for a few days.

Jeff

the deal with water circ pumps you 100 % need a marine specific not a true automotive water circ pump.

the difference is the auto one will not last period maybe a year max.

I have never seen a marine specific water circ pump new or even reman sell for 55 dollars or under even at dealer cost.

The difference

marine water circ pumps have

1. Stainless steel backing plate
2. Machined internal brass or bronze Impeller in which is non corroding compared to the auto steel one that will rust out in no time.
3. Also marine version impellers are bi directional and balanced
4. Stainless steel seal cup and spring
5. Stainless banded ceramic seal set
6. Also various bolt holes to be able to mount a wide variety of pulleys per marine app.
7. Most will come exterior painted

A quality marine app should be priced around 120 to 200 bucks depending retail.

I used that stuff to try to remove some rust out of some old cast manifolds, it removed the rust and ate through to the exhaust side. I don't blame the metal rescue, the manifolds where just to far gone.

I got an email back from the company:




Thank you for your interest in Metal Rescue™ Rust Remover Bath of the Workshop Hero™ line of products. Because Metal Rescue™ is a rust remover designed for iron and steel and does not harm other materials such as rubber, moldings, gaskets or seals, it is perfectly suited for use on AUTOMOBILE engine cooling systems. We have not done any specific testing on marine/boat engines but we have had customers who have used it for similar applications and with great success. What I can tell you is that Metal Rescue is designed for rust removal on iron and steel. Metal Rescue™ is has a water-based formula that literally acts like a magnet to rust. We like to say “Metal Rescue™ is safe on everything except rust,” because while it removes rust from metal it will not harm other materials such as wood, glass, rubber, vinyl or plastic.



Metal Rescue™ is clean, safe and easy to use. Please note, following the steps highlighted below will help to ensure that users of Metal Rescue™ receive successful results:



** Metal Rescue™ Rust Remover Bath works best at room temperature or warmer. Any cooler temperatures may not produce the optimal results you are looking for. **



1) Soak. Immerse metal part in liquid until rust is removed. Do not leave part in liquid after rust is no longer present or metal might gray slightly.

2) Check. Check periodically. Immersion ranges from 5 min – 24 hrs depending on the rust. Do not leave part in solution longer than 24 hrs.

3) Rinse. Remove part and rinse with water or with clean Metal Rescue™ solution and dry thoroughly.



Feel free to place an order for Metal Rescue™ by calling 800-365-1117 or online at www.workshophero.com. Our customer service staff is available Monday - Friday 8a-5p EST to assist you with your questions and to process your order.



Many thanks for your interest and please don’t hesitate to contact me if you have additional questions.



Cheri Rugh

Senior Marketing Specialist

Workshop Hero ™ - a division of Armor Protective Packaging®

P.O. Box 828

Howell, MI 48844

800-365-1117

Fax 517-546-6434

[email protected]

www.workshophero.com