Looking for some advice on trailers
10-16-2015 | 10:47 AM
#31
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From: Worldwide
Aluminum floats! I had one for my last boat and while it was nice it isn't necessary as I boat in fresh water. I now have a tricked out steel painted trailer and works awesome for my application.
But seriously, the last trailer would float and it was near 35' from coupler to rear. Only a twin axle also.
But seriously, the last trailer would float and it was near 35' from coupler to rear. Only a twin axle also.
My aluminum trailer from Rocket floated too. It was a pain in the ass, but then again is was one of those 'cut corners' trailers. It truly was a cheap as shlt piece of shlt when I got it. I added dumbells to it; took 200 lbs. to sink it.
I rebuilt it; but much better bunks on it, added V-bunks, replaced axles, etc. etc. I dropped the dumbell total down to 100 lbs, and it was fine.
Rocket, as well as several other bolt-together trailer manufacturers are known to END the aluminum I-beams on some trailers right behind the rear axle. Then they extend the main bunks way past the rear axles & lost cross member. This is absofrickinglutely terrible. This is also indicative of a trailer that will float: less aluminum than needed; and more wood to compensate.
10-16-2015 | 10:48 AM
#32
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From: Wentzville, MO
I am not familiar with this manufacturer but I can say based on the pictures they do not cut corners like venture. I can tell this by simply looking at the front where the i beams come together. On a venture they use angled brackets and connect the I beams to a third member. Very cheap construction technique.
One thing that does stick out tho is the use of aluminum beams for bunks. Not sure how I feel about that. Gel coat boat rubbing against metal spells disaster. I know the I beams are covered but it's bound to happen. The other thing is what happens when the metal bunks fatigue, develop a crack, etc...I like the old fashion wood bunks.
One thing that does stick out tho is the use of aluminum beams for bunks. Not sure how I feel about that. Gel coat boat rubbing against metal spells disaster. I know the I beams are covered but it's bound to happen. The other thing is what happens when the metal bunks fatigue, develop a crack, etc...I like the old fashion wood bunks.
10-16-2015 | 11:12 AM
#33
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From: Port Richey, Florida
Rocket, as well as several other bolt-together trailer manufacturers are known to END the aluminum I-beams on some trailers right behind the rear axle. Then they extend the main bunks way past the rear axles & lost cross member. This is absofrickinglutely terrible. This is also indicative of a trailer that will float: less aluminum than needed; and more wood to compensate.
When I buy an aluminum trailer I get one longer than needed and then shorten the vertical bunks to no more than 6" behind the frame.
The "right way"...
The "wrong way"...
10-16-2015 | 11:17 AM
#34
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From: frankenmuth michigan
Fwiw i had my vantage custom that im not thrilled about next to a towmaster version of it and every piece was dead identical except the extra 2 feet that my tongue sticks out between the hitch and capstain, a 6" square tube fram steel trailer like my eagle is just much more rigid when towing long distances
10-16-2015 | 12:09 PM
#35
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From: Port Richey, Florida
Here is why I will never buy a steel trailer again, and certainly not a boxed/closed tube frame steel trailer.., no matter where I live.
2005 Heritage Trailer I purchased from original owner who boated in northern Alabama. Can't say for sure he had ever boated in saltwater, but doubtful.
I bought it in August 2011 and he had already had to have the rear cross member replaced due to rust out.
1st pic is when I got it, note 2 small holes (highlighted in red box ) on the frame where he had mounted a spare tire carrier. BTW, this day is the only day it has even been in any water (freshwater mountain lake in NC) since I have owned it.
Flash forward to next pic last year, March of 2014 (2.5 years later)...you can see rust pops all down the frame tube. Still never been dipped in any water since 2011.
..and now today just from sitting in the salt air here in Florida ( moved here 2.5 years ago)..you can literally put your fingers through the frame all the way from front to back
A total of 4 years to go from solid as heck to a rusted pile of not even scrap metal.
2005 Heritage Trailer I purchased from original owner who boated in northern Alabama. Can't say for sure he had ever boated in saltwater, but doubtful.
I bought it in August 2011 and he had already had to have the rear cross member replaced due to rust out.
1st pic is when I got it, note 2 small holes (highlighted in red box ) on the frame where he had mounted a spare tire carrier. BTW, this day is the only day it has even been in any water (freshwater mountain lake in NC) since I have owned it.
Flash forward to next pic last year, March of 2014 (2.5 years later)...you can see rust pops all down the frame tube. Still never been dipped in any water since 2011.
..and now today just from sitting in the salt air here in Florida ( moved here 2.5 years ago)..you can literally put your fingers through the frame all the way from front to back
A total of 4 years to go from solid as heck to a rusted pile of not even scrap metal.
Last edited by 78CIG24; 10-16-2015 at 12:11 PM.
10-16-2015 | 12:10 PM
#36
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Excellent example. Many think all bolt together trailers are created equal. Another example is in the area of the cross members. Some manufactures do not hard bolt cross members to the i beam. Instead they use long u bolts that wrap around the beams. Your top picture shows how it should be done correctly.
