Converting another boater into an Arneson Believer
12-16-2015, 08:17 AM
#11
Nice, Brian! For me the SCX drives turned outward was pretty much on rails, inward was a bit loose, but there was porpoising in the 3000-3400 range with both directions of rotation. Just like bravo's the boat seemed very stern-heavy in waves. I had to run a lot of tab in rough water - killing even more speed.
The Arneson drives have no porpoising whatsoever (I've only run the boat with props turned inward), and I rarely use tabs except for slight adjustments in waves. I was also surprised at how well the boat handles and steers on plane, no difference from Bravo's.
The Arneson drives have no porpoising whatsoever (I've only run the boat with props turned inward), and I rarely use tabs except for slight adjustments in waves. I was also surprised at how well the boat handles and steers on plane, no difference from Bravo's.
Do you care to mention the cost of the ASD upgrade? Seems it never gets mentioned even when Rik gets asked directly.
Charter Member
12-16-2015, 08:52 AM
#14
The bravo conversion makes it stupid simple.......no moving of the engines since the standoff box has room inside it for the velvet drive trans.....and the stand off box has the bravo bolt pattern so no cutting of the transom....its basically labor for the swap once you have the parts.....this is assuming the modify bug doesn't bite you and you start changing things like color matching the hardware or chroming things 
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
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12-16-2015, 09:13 AM
#17
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The bravo conversion makes it stupid simple.......no moving of the engines since the standoff box has room inside it for the velvet drive trans.....and the stand off box has the bravo bolt pattern so no cutting of the transom....its basically labor for the swap once you have the parts.....this is assuming the modify bug doesn't bite you and you start changing things like color matching the hardware or chroming things
The hole pattern is different - the Arneson Extension box could eat my old IMCO extension boxes, so the new hole pattern is much bigger (a good thing when you see the size of the hardware... EVERYTHING is overbuilt - which is fantastic). The actual cutout inside the extension box does get a bit bigger too since the BAM transmission doesn't quite fit in the Bravo hole. I also had to do some modifying to the extension box and inner bracket due to stringer interference issues that were unavoidable.
The other note is that while the engines didn't move forward, the angle of the engines typically have to change for most transom angles - this means modifying the motor mounts and tailpipes.
All that being said, these changes are needed to optimize for the Arneson design. The end result is worth these changes.
12-16-2015, 09:32 AM
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That is not true, almost every single person I have talked to that did the bravo conversion had to move the engines down in the boat, and/or fill the notch in the transom. Moving the engines down also means that new tailpipes have to be made or the existing holes have to be filled and moved.
Because of this angle and where the headers are located geometrically relative to the transom, if you actually do need to cut on the tail pipes, they end up being shorter to accomplish the same goal - so buying new is not necessary. A lot of guys send them out to Hardin or Stainless Marine to cut and re-weld if necessary.
12-16-2015, 09:37 AM
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I think everybody pretty much knows the cost of the cost of the arnesons themselves, but how much did it cost to move the engines, re-rig the boat, etc??????
Basically starting with the cost to remove your SCX's, to the last nut going on to tighten your new props onto the arnesons????? What was the all in cost with labor, parts, props, etc...
Basically starting with the cost to remove your SCX's, to the last nut going on to tighten your new props onto the arnesons????? What was the all in cost with labor, parts, props, etc...
Last edited by Tibbstoy2; 12-16-2015 at 10:41 AM.
