Shower curtain to short for YOU lol Sorry bruther couldn't resist

Shower curtain that was too short and did not reach the floor so the water would just blow the bottom of the curtain out past the edge and all the water would run down the curtain onto the ground outside the shower.

If you would take a few hours to make that van self-driving you could buy yourself some extra sleep time. Just Sayin.

Backing plate:

I could not find one of the backing plates we machined for the inside of the transom. I was at Skater, and it was Saturday, so it would have taken a few days for my shop to make another one and get it to me so I just took some flat bar stock and made one that is close enough. It may not look as good but when the Drive shaft loop is bolted to it you will only see the top part of the loop so it will look pretty much like the other one. The main thing is function, and it will work just as good as the one we machined.

Stand off box:

We made 7" standoff boxes for the merc. #8's. The tunnel extension/steps on my boat stick back about 8-10" farther then a normal tunnel extension for more flotation when stopped and more bow lift when running. We needed the drive to be farther back for the tie bar to clear the extension when the drives were turned and it also gives us more leverage to trim the boat.

I put them onto the transom with 5200 marine adhesive that way they will never twist or come off if the bolts get loose. I slid the box forward on the studs till it was touching and put tape on the transom with 1/16" gap to the standoff box. Then pulled the standoff box and put a lot of 5200 on it. When it was tightened all the excess 5200 goes onto the tape and you can wipe it till it quits coming out and have a nice straight bead around the box and not have to spend hours cleaning the 5200 around it.

standoff boxes complete.

Transom assembly:

When mounting the transom assembly be sure to silicone the bolts that hold it to the transom. There are rubber plugs that go in there to seal the bolt but it is inside the O-ring groove so I would silicone them.

Drives:
I taped up the notches for where the socket goes in to tighten the drive to gimbal. The socket and/or extension could rub on the paint so I put several layers of green tape to protect the paint from having scuff marks.

Drive lower:

When putting a dry sump drive lower to the upper there is a little tube that fits between them. Since there are different thicknesses of spacers that fit on number 6 and 8 drives you have to put the right length of studs and oil delivery tube for the spacer your using. If you did not have a long enough tube the oil would never make it up to the upper gear set and it would not last very long at all.

Drives:
The mercury #8's are mounted, I went with 3 3/4" x-dimension including a 1/2" spacer in it. That may be a little high but I do have a 7" standoff box and I will be running a little bit bigger prop then someone would normally run on a high speed cat to make sure we can get on plane when there is a lot of fuel weight on board. Depending on how the boat reacts to different size props we might have to run a 17 3/4" 6 blade to start a really long run and then part way through when we have burned off 5-6000 lbs of fuel change to a smaller prop to run faster or more efficient.

The tie bar mount going up should clear the bottom of the tunnel extension and there is a notch cut into the steps to let it clear as you trim it up.