Stainless is a real crappy metal to weld with out future cracking I don't care how good you are.. even with heat treating after.

[QUOTE=SB;4500865]Yes one junction block with some hoses to it than take a fuel filter put it in line to the map sensor to smooth out pulses.

Depending on his timing that motor will probably idle 600-800rpm

[QUOTE=14 apache;4500863]Once you start playing with per-cylinder widebands you find that different cylinders have different fuel requirements at different loads and rpm. If you only have a single wideband you are looking at an average of 4 cylinders, some are lean, some are rich and that can change with rpm and load so you always have to leave your overall tune-up on the safely rich side to compensate for the cylinders that are lean. With individual cylinder control you can run the engine much leaner without the fear of burning it down. This helps with not only overall power but with fuel economy too.

We will be running speed density, Alpha/N sucks. The Hilborn has a vacuum manifold for a map signal and if the map signal is unsteady we can do map sampling where the ecu only looks at the map during a certain number of crankshaft degrees, giving you a smooth average map signal. The electronics package we are running does not suck.

I was told I could idle as high as 1000 rpm but we'd like to see it at 850.

And yet, nobody has come up with a better way to build stainless headers. Like I said, we looked into making header spacers and putting the o2's there but instead decided to start the waterjacket 2" back from the flange and put the bungs there. IDK......... may be the wrong move but if the o2 bung weld cracks, what about the collector welds, the tube welds, the water jacket welds, the tailpipe welds?

Are 02's gonna survive right there ? ie: heat.

Some boat builders use braces most do not.

Mine always crank near the weld. I fill the header with argon and keep it flowing from a second bottle as I weld to try to cool and keep environment as clean as possible. works a lot better. no cracking since I have been doing that.

Absolutely. My friend Scott has been doing nitrous engines this way with good results. O2's don't like moisture, if we keep the O2 close it will have a better chance of staying dry and it will warm up faster. The O2 will not be in the direct exhaust stream, we will use bungs that put the tip of the O2 at the same depth as the inside of the tube............ the O2's respond just as accurately in this position and stay out of direct exhaust heat.

This ! Thanks.