Looks good. Did you have them notch a hole for the ram mount or are you going to make that cut?

Not necessary on my boat, rams mounts are not close in the area, makes this very easy to do. Only thing I have to template is the fender mount on the starboard hatch. And yes I am fixing the rubber gasket that is coming off the hatch too!

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Using 3M VHB double sided 1" wide tape, 100' roll so i'll have some left over. Also ordered adhesive promoter pads from 3M, they smell like rubbing alcohol but leave a slightly tacky surface. I feel it is very important to get as much of the oils/debris as possible off the backing of the stainless panels. Clean surface = stainless that sticks and stays put. Set the tape aprox 6" apart, thanks to Neil "HyFive578" for the tip. I installed port side, starboard side I had to template for the fender holder. There is no fun house, wavy look and that is a relief. The 18 gauge stainless is about as thin as I would go to avoid the issue. Will post final photos and total cost for the project once vinyl decals arrive this week.
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Sorry for sideways pics, posting from my phone

Looks nice!

Looks great Rob. That's exactly how I applied the VHB tape. That is NEVER coming off...

Once the tape made contact with the 3M promoter there was no coming back and re-aligning. I agree with you, at first I was 50/50 about adding some set screws and washers for "just in case", definitely no need after feeling the bond.

There is no need for screws. I've had mine on for three seasons already and through some very rough water; not even a slight lifting from the surface.

Wow I wouldn't know what to do with all that room

I will never own a side by side setup again. Staggered really makes maintenance and cleaning a breeze.

Total cost for project: 2 Custom cut stainless sheets, 100' 3M VHB Tape, 2 Custom logos $380 all in. Starboard graphic is smaller to allow for fender holders.
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While I was at it, had some deck and misc vinyl graphics made
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What made you decide to go with the SS over acrylic?

Looks Great!!

We had the factory acrylic in our Fastech. Personally I like the deeper shine of the #8 polished stainless better. Mounting holes had to be drilled for fender mounts and I felt I had a better shot at getting it right without damaging the stainless versus the acrylic.

Nice steering wheel. Looks good.

Nice work, looks like windshield is getting updated as well. These are the projects that make winter season pass by quickly.

I see discount steel has 20ga and 22ga. Is there a reason you went with the 18ga / would the 20 or 22 bend or warp when mounting?

Neil (HyFive578) used 18 gauge on his boat and after comparing the gauges the 18 gauge to me was what hit all the checkmarks. It is thin enough to watch the weight but not too thin; to avoid the funhouse mirror issue after install. I felt going any thinner would compromise the solid mirror look, it could be being conservative on my part but the project came out excellent.

Thanks Kelly, you've seen the movie. I'll start another thread about that. Windshield surround is going from white to purple and anything that was original purple is getting re-done because everything was flaking, the windshield hardware looked terrible.

I know a guy ....

Got it, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the help. I'll be ordering from discount steel as well.

Looks awesome Rob! Excellent workmanship. I may have to copy what you did there.

This was the first thing I did when I got my 35 Lightning. Went from m white to red and the end result was a MAJOR improvement!

Many people have contacted me for more info since this thread went up, I want to thank everyone that has contributed so far. Anyone else out there want to post pics, suppliers, etc?

I did acrylic. Bought locally at Johnson Plastics. I used the 3M VHB tape. Install was pretty straight forward. It's good enough - the hatches don't raise up enough to see in from the dock anyway.

Looks excellent Terry!

I went with discount steel as well. Haven't hung them up yet but I think it'll look killer. When you guys taped them up did you use anything to hold or press them on the hatch firmly for a while to let the tape set up and stick good? Rob what about cleaning or polishing the SS? I'm afraid just taking a terry or microfiber cloth will scuff the polish. Do you use anything in particular?

And how are you guys posting pictures? I can't from my phone or from Photobucket anymore

For the tape, wipe down the attachment area with the 3M accelerator wipes, also rubbing alcohol would work. Warm the hatch and the tape with a heat gun, and apply. The tape will stick very well, you get one shot at it, no peeling and resticking.
For cleaning fresh micro fiber towels and any stainless specific cleaner or polish. I like blue magic stainless steel polish.
And yes posting pics now sucks on this site.

I always liked what Sunsation does with their underside engine hatches. the 36 and the 43. And their installed custom trim pieces

Couldn't agree more, they take huge pride in the engine compartment and are very innovative with ideas for hiding wires, engraved parts, etc

Photos

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...68257e61d7.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bd596f6f70.jpg
Good info.,,,I looked at the stainless when i did mine it was real bad expensive. I did mine in the acrylic mirror, On my hatch its not flat, I used the bolts that hold the hatch sun pad. and some 3m tape, in the middle. Not using the hatch cover bolts I would of had to protect the back side of the mirror from them and it would of made the mirror distorted, One thing about the acrylic the silver on the back that makes it a mirror will rub off, silver deteriorates on the edges , like a old mirror in your home bathroom, I was going to cover the back side of the mirror w/ vinyl to help with the wearing off of the silver but after cracking 3 of them,didn't want keep throwing $ at it, Also I was having to buy hole sheets to do just one mirror,7ft long, over 2 ft wide, I ended up keeping all the drops since he was charge me for the hole sheet any way, and used them in on the sides and other places. I think I was paying around 140 for a sheet plus some labor cutting it, For the bolt holes I made them bigger and put a rubber sleeve over the bolt to keep it from touch the mirror and cracking it, also I did the counter sunk washer and made some teflon washers so the chrome washer would not touch the glass,being these bolt were hold the hatch cove on it was easy to over tighten them and crack the mirror. It looked great for a while until it cracked at some of the bolt on places,

I made a cover for my ac on my Chevelle and it help up great and still like a mirror, I did a pc to cover my firewall behind the engine and its seen some wear,but both prob 20+ years old, Not sure what grade/# of stainless it was, had a sheetmetal buddy that did the hole front of a office building and had some left over pc's


Thanks for the info above on the Stainless, I try it next time for sure.

Rob

mirror https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f63dee0504.jpg

See a piece of dust down at the bottom right corner....might wanna take care of that Rob.

yea yea, hey get finished with that boat and paint my Chevelle

Just checking

Asking ----- thats graphics (FOUNTAIN) on the mirror ? and the 3 m VHB tape to hole it in place against the bottom of the hatch ? What prep work did you do for the bottom side of the hatch ? Im sure first was making sure it was completely level all way across so the 3 m tape would stick at all points. Thanks and very nice as well.

Very nice and thank you for including everything you did to get the job done!

Graphics are 3M Vinyl. The vinyl is transparent silver so it looks like the logo is etched on the stainless. I prepped the hatch surface and stainless mounting side first by stripping any cleaners, oils with de-natured alcohol. Then I used 3M accelerator pads, that are designed specific for bonding the 3M tape to the surfaces, to leave a layer of accelerant on both surfaces. Let it all tack up and assemble.There is some give in the 3M tape so the surface being bonded to does not have to be perfectly level.

Mirrored Stainless
 

Thats why I asked if the FOUNTAIN was graphics because in the pics it looks etched. How big is your mirrored stainless pieces L and W ? and are they heavy in weight ? do you know the weight per size ? thanks again. And it really does looked etched in the pics. Who did the graphics cause thats the way to go and easy to replace if ever needed plus would have to be alot cheaper than etching all that mirror stainless.

I hear you loud and clear. But will add for a V hull side by side the 386 Sonic is really not bad at all to work on. Actually easier than some singles believe it or not. Just had to throw that out. Cause I know what a pita many side by sides can be. A real PITA that I have been in.