Engine Hatch Mirror Options / Tips
 

I have been gathering info on choosing a material and install method for hatch mirrors in our Fountain. From my research I have found people using polycarbonate or #8 mirror polished stainless steel. Install methods from drilling floating grommets in the poly (This was factory in our previous Fastech), 3m emblem double side tape, stainless fasteners, or a marine adhesive. What about a new option, the current mirror vinyls used for vehicle wraps? Anyone tried it? Just wondering if it will look like Aluminum foil or nearly mirror like.
Any material, install, or general recommendations would be much appreciated.

I hope someone has tried this with good results. Looking forward to finding out!!

I had never thought about the vinyl graphics until. Solid idea!

I would look into perhaps "wrapping"...
...1/4" thick Lexan. You might even be able to have that vinyl printed with your boat's name or another design of your choice before it's applied.
All you need is a sharp/new drill bit and a normal hand drill to pop holes in it. I would drill the holes one size bigger than the screws; maybe even 2 sizes.

And also...
I bought the first listing here:https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...+Washers+Bolts
...for my Corvette's license plate bolts the other day. The exact same product was listed on a Corvette retailer site for 4X more.
(Corvette Tax, roughly akin/equal to Marine Tax, but WAY less than Aviation Tax!)

You may could use the aluminum washers to dress up the screws you apply them with. I would likely try the screws around the perimeter, as well as 3M brand double sided tape in the center of the Lexan sheet. You can also buy neoprene washers at Lowes/Home Depot that you could pad between the Lexan & aluminum washer for "soft contact" on the Vinyl.

You may be on to something here. Check with your local glass shop for sheets of Lexan costs.

i get a 1/4" mirrored acrylic sheet pretty cheap. last one i had under two hundred in both pieces cut to fit. Cut vinyl will not look like mirrored acrylic it will have a mottled look, it wont look bad if done right but will not be a precision reflective surface.

Cool thread. I'd love to see pics and what was used as material and mounting style

I used mirror 1/4 or 3/16 acrylic and an ass load of 3M Tape. Worked well. I did this twice, once on the Top Gun and once on the Mistress. I also used a piece of polished SS. I drilled a Hole every 6-8 " around the perimeter and finished it off with some nice stainless hardware. Acrylic was lighter, but I got the piece of polished Stainless at a good price and couldn't pass it up. If I had to do it again I would get the Acrylic. Glass shop will cut exact dimensions and even put holes if you want mechanical fasteners.

My old boat did not use screws - some form of adhesive. It held very well.

I'll ask the new owner (who is also the previous owner who installed the mirrors) what he used.

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Under one of my hatches I have a double fender holder. If going the acrylic route what would be the best scenario to A) mount over the acrylic and have no reason to worry about cracking the acrylic B) template the points of contact for the holder into the acrylic and make cutouts for the part to bolt right back in its original spot without contacting the acrylic imagine the acrylic "picture framing" the fender holder, C) stop the acrylic short of the fender mount, no contact, no picture frame, no template needed.

Very nice!!!

Padraig

Voodo go here https://www.hpmanufacturing.com/hous...-retail-store/ they right here in cleveland, I bought sheets from them, and they have everything you could possibly wish for in that material. They can also cut it and make provisions for any holes. I just had them cut my piece and bevel the edges and i used nice stainless steel acorn nuts to attach.

On a side note easyrider 1340 I think I see a emergency cable release for your hatch. How is it setup? Sorry not trying to hijack thread.

Excellent, can you post some pics of your work?

That's my old boat. But the slide on the ram allowed you to raise hatch just enough to grab the cable and pin, to release it and raise the hatch.

Those mirrors I posted above are mirrored plexiglass obtained locally from a glass shop. They were cut at the glass shop based on the owners template. They were installed using 3M 4200 and 3M adhesion promoter. It is a 100mph boat and they never came off.

Rob - regarding your fender holders, if I put mirrors in mine - the fender holders on the hatch will be removed. I've only been in the bilge twice (just got the boat), and they are in the way (bumped my bald head twice already!).

That's my old boat. But the slide on the ram allowed you to raise hatch just enough to grab the cable and pin, to release it and raise the hatch.

Those mirrors I posted above are mirrored plexiglass obtained locally from a glass shop. They were cut at the glass shop based on the owners template. They were installed using 3M 4200 and 3M adhesion promoter. It is a 100mph boat and they never came off.

Rob - regarding your fender holders, if I put mirrors in mine - the fender holders on the hatch will be removed. I've only been in the bilge twice (just got the boat), and they are in the way (bumped my bald head twice already!).

still trying to figure out how to post images

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/5212/ywrtqK.jpg

Sorry for the crummy pic I think the link works lol my first image post

I used 18 gauge stainless panels that I bought from Summit Products (http://www.rvstainless.com). The quality of the finish was impeccable and they are like a mirror. I used 3M VHB (very high bond) tape to attach to the hatches and they're not EVER coming off. I then added Fountain logos that I bought from RacelineDigital in an "etched glass" vinyl. They look like mirrors with the logos etched in. And, they're stainless steel so they are easily cleaned and there is no risk of cracking. You could mount your fender holders right over this by drilling through the steel and you won't have any issue with it cracking. I would just suggest buying some 1/8" rubber gasket sheet and cut to fit the bracket between the fender holder and the SS sheet so it absorbs vibration. I'll see if I can find some pictures or next time I'm at my boat, I will take some.

That looks badass bill

Anyone else do this mod? Pics? I am leaning to the Stainless like HyFive did.

5 boats ago, I had a Checkmate Convincor 251 Classic. I did the polished Stainless Steel, because I virtually got it for nothing. It worked awesome. I polished it, drilled some holes, used washers and fastened it. It worked out great, this is the only picture I have. The rest of them I used acrylic. Good luck with your project. Obviously the Acrylic is substantially lighter. The SS is more durable. Both are great options.

Don't you have to polish the stainless occasionally? Seems like more work than the plexi route.

The #8 stainless has an extremely high polish and the surface is hard, not to say there can be surface scratches from cleaning with a dirty cloth. I had the plexi in our Formula. It performed well but had a spotty haze in the sandwich of materials with slight delam on the edges, could have been heat and age. Since we manufacture motorcycle exhausts out of stainless I have access to compounds and buffers if needed. I don' think it will be necessary though.

Honestly only polished it once a season, Really never dulled up. Easy to maintain

The mirrored plexi scratches very, very easy FYI. I did it under mine last spring. I need to do it again because they rubbed my breathers & now have marks on them. Plexi is less than $200 to do both hatches on a 42. Do the stainless screws & double sided tape. also go very slow when drilling the holes, heating the bit helps also.

I went with diamond plate so it wouldn't look like Reggie Fountain's bedroom anymore. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pson9klrxm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps59uyiy53.jpg

That diamondplate looks awesome...nice job!!

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Yes, mirrorplex can be scratched so care must be taken. Scratches to the back side cause the most damage so install carefully.
I would not want to add the weight of stainless. This plex has been on six years with double sided tape.

I sent out some quote requests around the Cleveland area for customer pick -up, I received 1 response out of three requests. Qty (2) #8 Stainless 18 Gauge 21" x 50.5" with rounded corners. $244 per piece, does the pricing seem correct?

yes, its the processing that cost the money when buying cut to order metals. That seems pretty reasonable.

Check out discountsteel.com. That's where I got my diamond plate. They also made me a new dash panel when I added a chart plotter. For a shear cut piece, they're only $83 a piece in a mirrored stainless #8 your size. For a CNC laser cut, they are $138. I'm sure they will round the corners if you call and ask.

Excellent info! Just sent for a quote, hopefully they can ship the sheets.

So here is where I am at with this. The past few days I have been emailing and calling for quotes. Over a dozen local and a few next couple of states over suppliers I tried. I have received 5 contacts back, only 1 local Cleveland supplier can do it, the others are out of state. For (2) 20" x 50.5" 304 Sheet #8 finish on one side with round corners priced from $488 and pick-up in Cleveland to $198.40 from Discount Steel in Minneapolis, MN and that also includes shipped to my shop. It does pay to shop because a supplier may have some drop from a previous job and they just want to move it. I am going with Discount Steel and will update when I get the sheets.

This supplier turned out to be best price and service, Thanks Plum for the tip!

$200/sheet or for both sides?

Both sides, 2 sheets, delivered to my business

damn... Add some pics once they get in. May switch over since mine are now scratched up.

No Problem, will do. I will be chasing the install components next and then some vinyl logos. If anyone needs the info Discount Steel 612-877-4719 Blake Millington

Prolly could just do 3M double sided tape & lots of it.

I installed my stainless steel panels with 3M VHB (very high bond) tape.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

I used strips set 6" apart down the full length and also around the entire edge. That was 2 1/2 years ago and they have not budged; they're never coming off...

As for the logos, I got mine from Raceline Digital.

If anyone goes with acrylic, use AMERICAN CAST acrylic...it will not craze in the long term. I personally just went with polished aluminum diamond plate on my Formula using the original plexiglass as a template, cut with holes drilled for $152 at my local fab shop (including the metal.) I used stainless self tapping screws and washers. Less maintenance in the long term, no chrome or supercharger to show off in my rig anyway.

Received 2 sheets of stainless from Discount Steel yesterday. They were wrapped and sandwiched with particle board and then wrapped in cardboard. Shipped thru Fed ex ground no damage. This picture is the back of the stainless so ignore the light scratches, the front is covered with a mask to protect it. I also ordered a 100' roll of 1" Ultra High Bond 3M double sided tape, you have seen it as emblem adhesive in the auto parts stores. Will update once everything is received.
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