Fresh water flush options
 

Hey, on my 1996 Formula 303 with 502s/Bravos, I need to figure out the best way to get these motors flushed. Being that it is hanging on a lift, it is extremely difficult to accomplish this task with the lift configuration I have now. So, question is, would it be better to get a full length rear service platform to get awesome access to both motors and drives? That way I would utilize the "ear muff" method to flush each motor. Or, would it be better to have a pair of flush kits installed in the motor compartment (or under the seat or on the transom (cut holes, ugh)) and connect a hose to the inside compartment and flush that way? A full length platform with necessary attachments and upgrades will probably run $1000-1500 (max). I am not sure what the flush kits go for these days, but I am pretty sure they would be alot cheaper, like $6-800 installed.
What do ya'll think? Also, what about the Salt Away or similar products? Are they worth it? Right now, the water is very fresh (and brown) because of the millions of gallons of fresh water being dumped into the river from Lake Okeechobee. In January or February, it'll be a different story unless we have a very wet "winter".

I'd want both the platform and the flush kits with access in the engine compartment.

We sell these - ​​​​​​​DELUXE FLUSHING KIT WITH DECK FILL :: Engine Flushing Kits :: Diamond Performance Parts

I'd install sea strainers.

You can simply install a Tee before the seawater pump, and run a hose from the tee to somewhere convenient and install a garden hose deck fitting. I installed mine inside the engine compartment. No valves needed. Connect garden hose to fitting and turn on the water. With motor off, the water will flush outwards to thru the drive. Then simply start the motor with the water still on, and the seawater pump will pull the water thru the motor instead of going out the drive. When done flushing, remove the hose and install the cap on the garden hose fitting. You must keep that capped tightly during normal operation. If the cap is loose, the seawater pump will suck air thru it and not water thru the drive. I had this on my Fountain and it never missed a beat. Doesnt get any easier. $100 for parts and an hr of install time. If you feel uneasy about the cap coming loose, you can install a valve before the fitting as a added insurance.

Nice! What size and kind of "T " did you use?

I used a Perko flush kit but would do as US1 said with just a Tee. The Perko is glass or plastic that can and has broken nearly sinking a few boats. I also like the idea of back flushing the drive but the Perko kit doesn’t allow that. I actually plan on yanking the Perko and putting a tee in its place. I do not miss using the muffs one single bit.

I can't imagine not having a flush kit.

On on your other question, I use salt away religiously and have been a believer for about fifteen years after seeing the difference it made on thermostats in an old outboard we had.

A good friend of mine had a cool flush kit attached on each 350 Mag in his 28ZXO . No need for the engines to be running , just turn the tap on and wait a few minutes.
Sounded great at first but after a few seasons the grommets in the transom plate for the exterior water hose pickup / interior transfer hose corroded and were crushed by the corrosion creating an overheat problem that baffled a couple of mechanics .
Had he actually been flushing with muffs (a PITA , I admit as he was on a lift) it would have rinsed out everything from the water pick ups on the lower unit bullet all the way through.
Just something else to consider .

I always let mine back flush before I fire the motors up