Run engine on hose w/o impellor
09-20-2018, 12:32 PM
#1
Run engine on hose w/o impellor
Alright stay with me for a minute.
Last week the seapump was rebuilt w/ new mercury impellor and oring, by the book with an inch pound torque wrench.
Monday it pumped just fine.
Tuesday after 3 start ups for about a minute each i wasnt getting any water from the exhaust.
Took the hose off the first cooler and found rubber crumbs inside.
Removed seapump, impellor isnt missing any vanes but you can see it was wearing
It has 10 minutes total run time.
The steering needs bled so what im thinking is put the seapump back on minus the impellor, need serpentine belt to spin circ pump alt and power steering.
turn on the hose and ignition , the smartcraft mercmonitor should give me a pressure reading and as long as water is flowing from both exhaust pipes the engine could run and steering get bled.
What do you think, the engine is a closed cooled
How about belt tension, how much deflection between which 2 pulleys?
Last week the seapump was rebuilt w/ new mercury impellor and oring, by the book with an inch pound torque wrench.
Monday it pumped just fine.
Tuesday after 3 start ups for about a minute each i wasnt getting any water from the exhaust.
Took the hose off the first cooler and found rubber crumbs inside.
Removed seapump, impellor isnt missing any vanes but you can see it was wearing
It has 10 minutes total run time.
The steering needs bled so what im thinking is put the seapump back on minus the impellor, need serpentine belt to spin circ pump alt and power steering.
turn on the hose and ignition , the smartcraft mercmonitor should give me a pressure reading and as long as water is flowing from both exhaust pipes the engine could run and steering get bled.
What do you think, the engine is a closed cooled
How about belt tension, how much deflection between which 2 pulleys?
Last edited by outonsafari; 09-20-2018 at 01:00 PM.
09-20-2018, 01:41 PM
#3
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If he is right about the water pressure being the same, put the housing back on sans imperllor, remove the water feed hose from the transom assembly. wrap the garden hose fitting with electrical tape untill its pretty close to a snug fit, stick it in, hose clamp it, turn the water hose on and the motor shouldnt know the dofference.
09-20-2018, 01:53 PM
#4
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If your ps pump has a allen head fitting on the shaft, you dont need the engine running to bleed the ps system, remove the belt, remove the pulley, hook a 1/2 drill to the pump shaft and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while spinning the pump and keeping the reservoir full.
09-20-2018, 01:57 PM
#5
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If your ps pump has a allen head fitting on the shaft, you dont need the engine running to bleed the ps system, remove the belt, remove the pulley, hook a 1/2 drill to the pump shaft and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while spinning the pump and keeping the reservoir full.
09-20-2018, 02:24 PM
#7
Registered
If your ps pump has a allen head fitting on the shaft, you dont need the engine running to bleed the ps system, remove the belt, remove the pulley, hook a 1/2 drill to the pump shaft and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while spinning the pump and keeping the reservoir full.
09-20-2018, 10:11 PM
#8
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Location: St.Peters,Mo/5mm LOTO/LEOPA
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I agree runthe pump with a cordless drill to bleed it. You will feel it prime have someone turn the helm port and starboard and your done. The foam in the reservoir will go away the next day
09-21-2018, 06:42 AM
#9
Thanks guys, you hit on everything involved
Not sure if the pulley is removable I wanted to spin the pump
but there isnt anyone who could turn the wheel for me.
one thing this seapump has going for it is 2 different size hoses, 1 1/4 inlet, 1 1/2 output
which connects to a reducer that sends water off to the cool fuel so it would be pretty
tough mixing up the hoses.
the city water pressure isnt anything spectacular, 40 psi maybe
its low, very similar to the pressure i had on a 2000 gallon water tank and one of those
water pumps that look like an air compressor
I picked up some brass hose fittings 5/8 id to modify the earmuffs, and a
3/4 id pvc hose fitting that fits into intake hose. One way or another
i have to have a way to run it in the drive for maintenance and flushing
The hardin pump got here yesterday, it makes the stock pump look like
Mercury got it from hasbros easy bake oven marineengine parts division
Not sure if the pulley is removable I wanted to spin the pump
but there isnt anyone who could turn the wheel for me.
one thing this seapump has going for it is 2 different size hoses, 1 1/4 inlet, 1 1/2 output
which connects to a reducer that sends water off to the cool fuel so it would be pretty
tough mixing up the hoses.
the city water pressure isnt anything spectacular, 40 psi maybe
its low, very similar to the pressure i had on a 2000 gallon water tank and one of those
water pumps that look like an air compressor
I picked up some brass hose fittings 5/8 id to modify the earmuffs, and a
3/4 id pvc hose fitting that fits into intake hose. One way or another
i have to have a way to run it in the drive for maintenance and flushing
The hardin pump got here yesterday, it makes the stock pump look like
Mercury got it from hasbros easy bake oven marineengine parts division
09-22-2018, 02:04 PM
#10
On a 100 foot hose, 3/4 i.d., and the earmuffs modified with dual 5/8 i.d. hose, 5/8 i.d. fittings and the Y pipe gutted out.
I get 5 gallons a minute, and 5 gallons a minute w/o the earmuffs.
Question would be is 5 gallons enough for idle to flush engine w/o hurting the seapump?
Only mod left would be to cut the hose down to 30 feet and run the boat next to the house rather than in its parking place.
Thanks
I get 5 gallons a minute, and 5 gallons a minute w/o the earmuffs.
Question would be is 5 gallons enough for idle to flush engine w/o hurting the seapump?
Only mod left would be to cut the hose down to 30 feet and run the boat next to the house rather than in its parking place.
Thanks
Last edited by outonsafari; 09-22-2018 at 02:06 PM.
