Getting some leaks
05-22-2019, 05:09 PM
#1
Getting some leaks
I’m pretty sure that I’m getting leaks from my rub rail. I get water coming into the engine bay on identical sides at the joint in the hull and in my cuddy. I’ve decided against sealing the leaking spots in the engine bay, I think that’s the design to indicate bad rub rail seals? Is it? Should I pull the rub tail off and check under it? The rub rail needs to be re-caulked regardless so what’s the best method, slow steady hand and 3m marine silicone caulking?
05-22-2019, 07:30 PM
#2
Registered
I’m pretty sure that I’m getting leaks from my rub rail. I get water coming into the engine bay on identical sides at the joint in the hull and in my cuddy. I’ve decided against sealing the leaking spots in the engine bay, I think that’s the design to indicate bad rub rail seals? Is it? Should I pull the rub tail off and check under it? The rub rail needs to be re-caulked regardless so what’s the best method, slow steady hand and 3m marine silicone caulking?
how low slung is this cuddy?
Could be the hatch.
05-22-2019, 09:57 PM
#3
Well, there is no hatch and the rub-rail visibility needs to be re-done. There’s sections actually missing caulking and I can see where in the cuddy it’s leaking along the rub-rail joint. The stern rub-rail is in the water when the boats not in motion. Is it fairly easy to remove from the back rub-rail to seal it? I’m just worried that I’ll seal the wrong spot, water will get trapped in the rub-rail, expand and ruin something during the winter....
05-23-2019, 12:50 AM
#5
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
The proper way to do it is to remove the rubrail and then seal the joint between the hull and deck.
You can use 3M 5200 for that and it will strengthen the joint as well.
When you reinstall rubrail, put some silicone into the holes before you screw it back on. You should not need run a bead silicone on the actual rubrail.
You can use 3M 5200 for that and it will strengthen the joint as well.
When you reinstall rubrail, put some silicone into the holes before you screw it back on. You should not need run a bead silicone on the actual rubrail.
05-23-2019, 05:50 PM
#6
its submerged enough at times, especially when people are sitting on the back platforms, the water goes over the platform at that point.
05-23-2019, 06:04 PM
#7
Registered
Easiest confirmation is If you pop the engine hatch when you have everyone in the boat, you will probably see water coming in at the seams...3m Silicone will stay flexible and seal up the seam where the hull and deck meet and each screw should be pulled. Using 5200 will work but if you have to replace a section of the rub rail backing - you are in for a fight to get it off (5200 will hold trim tabs to a hull so it will definitely hold a rub rail).
Long story short, your in for a bit of a job but you have to seal the hull/deck (behind the rub rail) and each screw hole
Long story short, your in for a bit of a job but you have to seal the hull/deck (behind the rub rail) and each screw hole
05-23-2019, 06:19 PM
#8
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Easiest confirmation is If you pop the engine hatch when you have everyone in the boat, you will probably see water coming in at the seams...3m Silicone will stay flexible and seal up the seam where the hull and deck meet and each screw should be pulled. Using 5200 will work but if you have to replace a section of the rub rail backing - you are in for a fight to get it off (5200 will hold trim tabs to a hull so it will definitely hold a rub rail).
Long story short, your in for a bit of a job but you have to seal the hull/deck (behind the rub rail) and each screw hole
Long story short, your in for a bit of a job but you have to seal the hull/deck (behind the rub rail) and each screw hole
If he uses 5200 to stick the rub rail on, and he or somebody else ever tries to take it off, they are liable to rip up the shoebox joint pretty bad..... 5200 on the hull to deck in the joint is good, but make sure its cured before installing the rub rail.
05-23-2019, 06:25 PM
#9
