Trying to take off the nut to replace the rear seal on my velvet drive transmission Borg Warner
Which way do I turn the freakin nut ?

All velvet drive output shaft nuts are standard (right hand) thread direction regardless of prop rotation. Lefty loosey.
Factory torque is around 200 ft lbs with blue loctite. Do not reuse the old nut. On assembly, torque to 150-170 ft lb - locate is not technically required but lots of guys use it.

If it is the factory assembly, you will have a whale if a time loosening it without a torque arm to hold it. Also expect to put a pipe on your breaker bar..

Some use heat on the nut to help break it free. I advise NOT using a torch in a boat for obvious reasons. I've been standing in - not one... not two... but THREE bilges that erupted in flames due to a tiny mistake. Every time, I have had extinguisher in reach and every time the boats suffered nothing more than superficial damage or black streaks to polish away. Personally, loss of assorted body and facial hair, some blisters, and minor cuts and bruises from adrenaline-fueled scrambling is all I've suffered, labeling me very lucky. The worst one was in the bilge of a twin bigblock houseboat we had recently purchased. It had fuel supply issues to the port motor. It had a Carter electric fuel pump which ran/sounded just fine. I added a tee with pressure gage for testing and I reused the rusty Kmart worm clamp on the hose barb. I went "all the way" up front and turned on the ignition and walked back to see the pressure reading. The pump was running, and I climbed down to where I could see the gage. About the time I wS standing on the stringers, the rusty clamp let loose and the pressure hose blew off the tee blasting gas out. I instinctively grabbed the hose and tried to cram it back on the fitting tk stop the flow. That worked "okay" but gas was still drooling out just a bit and I had no other clamp to throw back on it. Since I was right there, I went ahead and verified that the pressure was just shy of 8 psi. Pretty much where I wanted it to be. So, pressure is good, but now I couldn't let go of the hose to go up front to turn off the ignition because the hose would pop back off again and flood gas into the bilge. There was already probably 6 or 7 seconds worth of fuel in the bottom of the boat and I didn't want more... So.... the pump wiring had Kmart blue insulated crimp fittings, so I figured I would just kick the wires loose and the pump would stop. And it did. Except when the wires broke connection, they sparked briefly. WHOOOM. 4 foot high flames from under the Port oil pan all the way over to the stringer just right of centerline. It "looked" like I was standing in a burning cornfield. I hopped on top of the generator, grabbed the extinguisher and unloaded it at the source. I paused, saving what felt like the "last squirt" for whatever tried to relight but nothing in the bilge was still burning. Except my feet. I shot them with the last burst and put them out. I ran up front and killed the ignition and grabbed another fresh extinguisher and ran back looking for more flames. It was out. I learned a lot that day. I was about 35 yrs ago and ever since then I have been very cautious regarding electrical connections in a combustible environment. Any tests or experiments with fuel pumps and such have utilized a test cord and a sealed handheld switch. It is in my toolkit and has come in very handy.

At any rate.
Hope the nut doesn't give you too much trouble.

Bro , what an answer . Wow and thanks.
got nut off with breaker bar and the weight of my 220 lb neighbor . Anyways now time to reassemble.
Got new nut and seal of course . I'm reading that people say put on RTV on splines?
Also lock tight in-between outer seal and housing ?
I assume I will grease the shaft ?

Also .... there was no washer behind the nut and the coupling I assume it's supposed to be like that?

Thanks again

That is one scary story!