My father has a 34 wood/steel car he is building, I believe he is doing a Ford 9" 4 link (pic 1). There are a few shops here is Ohio that will build out your chassis setup, either jus that portion, or a full custom build. They will make the fram efrom scratch. I think that may be a little too far for you.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6981444655.jpg

At some point I'll get into this 1935 sedan below, original wood/steel car. I was going to go with an Art Morrison setup (they make a pre-fabbed rear frame setup with Ford 9") or a full on frame either custom built from one of the Ohio shops, or you can order the full chassis from Art Morrison. they have been around a long time, good quality stuff.
https://artmorrison.com/

Dependent upon HP, I would be weary of the JAG rear end. A lot have been done in the past, I believe more for a "show" car than a performer.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d652c49ea1.jpg

On the Jag rear ends, yes there is a lot of bling, the one thing I never liked about them, the back end of the car has to sit too high. By the time you get one, go through it, polish or plate it $$$, you could buy a 9" Currie built to fit and be done.

Check out the Ford 8.8" IRS , strong, inexpensive, lots of parts and with a light car and limited tires you could do burnouts for days without breaking something.

I built a 33 Chevy 5 window with and early jag, they look and handle great. It all depends on the amount of money and look you want. I. Have used quick change, 9 inch, and GM. I agree 4 link with coil overs is probably the best for a street car with some hp. They also look good if you get polished aluminum shocks with chrome springs and chromed links.

I ran a narrowed 3.43:1 XKE Jag IRS behind a +/- 500HP/TQ stroker in a Cobra replica for almost 20 years and It never skipped a beat. Yes - there were a few "accidental" smoky launches right through first and well into second gear and with the power-lock diff ( which is essentially a Dana unit) it was always controlled and predictable. In a light car like the Cobra, I found that I didn't need the rear sway bar and that really allowed the suspension to do it's thing. Handled great and gave a nice, supple ride.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...afa3037a46.png
He also built this one, which has a corvette c4 independent rear running a 450hp 454. Runs and handles real well.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5e8540a48.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...452602888.jpeg
Not super great pics but you get the idea.

and like one of the previous members said, he had it setup with airbags, while cool, handled terrible. It’s now got coilovers all four corners and it drives much better.

I found my 34 rode awesome, but handled terrible until I installed sway bars front and rear, I should point out that when I originally built the car it had a Jaguar front also, which I hated!! Wide track width didn’t stop for s—t with the jag brakes! And headers were almost impossible with the torsion bars.

one of the big problems you will have is flex, the body on most cars is a big part of the stiffness of it all but the wood frame bodies move ALOT. the nails pull loose, wood dries out etc. you would do good to at least box the frame or best is a new frame but you may not want to get that deep in it. I hate the air ride setups that are out there. cars handle like crap and the compressors are noisy and dont last. most of the air rides are poorly engineered which is why I recommended the coilovers for a driver. if you pull the door panels you should have a rod with a turn buckle that is the tension to adjust the doors to fit, that is how much they move around so make sure all the wood is good or yes you my soil the seats first time hard on the throttle. we always look for 1936 or newer to build as they are steel frame bodies and so much better to work with. either way it will be a fun ride.

I have some suggestions
That motor is gonna warp your frame like crazy unless you buy a new frame, do some serious fab work. At least back half it.
Get rid of that 12 bolt and get a good pro pro built 9" Ford.
A 3 or 4 link is the only real options.
That is alot of HP for that car, its not a Camero or late model car and the steel is getting kind of old.
Just trying to help so you can enjoy the car instead of getting pissed at it all the time.
I've been at this stuff 60 years.
Pics of my 34 Tudor

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9108876cc1.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...efa60712b9.jpg