Sorry for sharing my distraction from working on the boat 😀.

Last year we bought what was a running, cough, driving, cough 1928 Chevrolet sedan street rod. This was an original but chopped wood framed steel body car with an 8-71 blown small block with 100% Mickey Mouse inspired suspension that quickly turned from refresh to build. We are getting close on the front half of car which is all new from firewall forward including frame rails, suspension, brakes, and power. Engine is new from short block up including a Trick Flow Specialties top end package that dyno’d at 475hp before adding the blower so expecting a driveable 600+ hp going in a pretty short and light wheelbase. The entire rear suspension is garbage so I’m starting with a clean slate other than using the existing GM 10 bolt rear. This is my first rod build what would any rodders recommend between 3-link, 4- link, or a composite leaf? The car won’t be a track car and I’d like the best ride possible. Not looking to do airbags as I think too light to benefit much.
Thanks in advance for any sharing,
Rick

Note that is the before photo

triangulated four link gives the most tuning. you dont need a panhard bar and with coil over shocks you can easily adjust and/or swap spring rates with out a lot of cost. any leaf spring you are hoping you like the spring rate or you have to buy another set of springs so it is a best guess deal. coil over springs are cheap. with the four link you will have to put in cross bars and mounts but the tuneability is great. I have worked on several wood framed cars and they are a pain. have you pulled the interior to look at the wood?

X2 on the 4link setup. Think you would be happier with the overall outcome of it.

Call Jason Slover at Pete & Jakes in Peculiar MO. They have been building front and rear street rod suspensions for many years. His dad, Jerry, bought the Pete and Jakes business many years ago, and owned and operated an auto parts store with street rod parts in the back room before that. Parts are fabricated on site, test fit and shipped to you. I do not recommend air ride at all. I struggled with a/r on my 32 for years and removed the front, installed a TCI independent. Left the bags on the back for extra weight in trunk on long trips.
That is a lot of weight up front and they will want to know the weight to calculate the springs.
Pete and Jakes 816-758-4504

Thank you guys appreciate the input.

compedgemarine - the floors and door frames look very good but I have not pealed back and looked inside the body yet. Based on weight and power I’m expecting either to see splinters or to wet myself the first full throttle run so will get that view soon. 😳🤣

Personally I have a 1934 3 window coupe that I would have had backtrack together but I got involved with performance boating! The biggest drawback on the early Chevy is the amount of wood used in the body. My car I went with jaguar rear and kugel komponents front end for ride quality! There are plenty of jag rear ends out there now, but xke is more narrow for the early street rods and definitely bring more bling!

I second the props for the Jag IRS. The center section is rock solid and narrowed, beefed up axles and components are readily available. The ride and handling are worth every penny.

I like the idea of the Jag independent rear. How would the Jag rear react to the “accidental” full throttle launch? Helping go straight or entertaining??😂

the xke were posi, I’m not sure about the later models, chromed up, the looks can’t be beat !!!