Also, that burnt smell is normal. It's just old oil and steel.

Looks like no one can or will answer your question.

Padraig

There really shouldn't be any oil in those lines. They flow back down into lower parts of the system - the only thing that should have oil in it to any significant degree are the filter, cooler, and pan, right?

Can he put air to the fittings? Sure. But there's really no point.

Padraig, Yes, that is what it seems.
Everyone is hung up on why it's not really necessary in their opinions and I was trying to explain that it is necessary in my opinion. Maybe if I put the question again in a different way.
What I really want to know is IF I apply air to the remote oil filter block to purge the system as much as possible, is there a chance that I may "F" something up? I wouldn't want the oil pump to loose it's prime (if that's possible) or who knows what hence my question. Is there a check valve between the oil pump and the filter? No way to force the oil back that way correct? So it would have to go through the cooler etc.

TomZ My cooler is below the engine along with most of the new lines. The thermostat is about even with the pan.
Now I am thinking about the amount of oil again and I think when I change the oil it only takes 6 qts INCLUDING filling the filter. If that is correct, I have a full 3rd of the overall capacity not getting changed. Now I feel even more anxious
Anyone on here have a 7.4? If yes, how much oil does it take?

Many automotive applications now have oil coolers. Diesel engines have them and some are pretty big. You never get all of the oil out. I think you’re stressing over a non issue. And sorry, I still haven’t answered your question.

Lol!!! I can only work with one anxiety inducing issue at a time!
However I am going to take a closer look at the Dodge next time I change the oil.
I'm just going to try it and see what happens. Won't be till next fall. I'm sure everyone will be on pins and needles waiting to hear what happens.
Thanks to everyone for their time and comments.
We will pick this up next year.

Oil cooler doesn't hold much.

I am very anal when I do my oil changes. I let the oil drip from the pan with the car tilted toward the drain. I put the plug back in when no more drops are coming out.

On my street car with oil cooler, I will remove the 2 lines going to it and use air to blow out as much as I can. Cooler is 24" long and holds about qt to qt and half. But that isn't to hard to do on it.

Does it make a difference in the end? Probably not much lol.

Get a much oil as you can get out and call it a day. The drain plug drain kits are the way to go. That should get most out of the pan.

I perform my auto oil changes in the same matter. Drain the pan for at least 20 minutes. I always fill the filter before installing. I go over all the grease points. My work van is a 2010 with 352,800 miles on it and it still runs great.
I did buy a pretty big aftermarket oil cooler. I don't know what it holds but it has to be close to a couple qts.
You said: "Does it make a difference in the end? I would argue that it makes a difference to you. If it made absolutely no difference, I'm sure you wouldn't put forth the effort. It gives you piece of mind and a sense of pride in doing the best you can regardless of the task. That's what I would like to do in this case however I don't want to mess something up. I'll have first hand knowledge next year and post what happens. Could be an oil sh!t show.
Thanks for your comment

You hot 353k on your work van? Sounds like your maintenance routine is spot on dude.

Not sure about others but oil every 5k miles and transmission every 35k. Both still original