Steel vs Aluminum Trailers
02-17-2003 | 10:21 AM
#21
Platinum Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 5,769
Likes: 150
From: tn
My aluminum flexes a bit unloaded. With the boat on it, it's like a rock (F311SR1). Fits the boat great. Doesn't float. Has stainless Nylock nuts over stainless split lockwashers on quality stainless bolts.
Sure, it's a good idea to give the wrench a good pull on them once a year.
As far as letting the air out of tires for floaters, are you sure this works??? A tire/wheel combo at 75 psi actually weighs more than the same setup at 5 psi. It DOES expand the tire carcass a bit, but is it enough to matter? Obviously, when the boat is on the trailer, the squashed tires will be denser, but when unloaded I'm not sure. Not arguing, just questioning.
If you've done this and it works, then great. Just seems like a bit of a hassle. Why not get two 4' long pieces of PVC pipe and fill them with gravel or concrete and glue the end caps on. U-bolt one on each side of the inside I-beam at the rear of the frame beams. Will dang sure add a lot more effective weight than the air pressure mod PLUS the weight will be on the sprung section of the frame, not the unsprung (wheel/tire/axle). It will also be there always not making you carry a pump with you and/or destroy your tires.
Sure, it's a good idea to give the wrench a good pull on them once a year.
As far as letting the air out of tires for floaters, are you sure this works??? A tire/wheel combo at 75 psi actually weighs more than the same setup at 5 psi. It DOES expand the tire carcass a bit, but is it enough to matter? Obviously, when the boat is on the trailer, the squashed tires will be denser, but when unloaded I'm not sure. Not arguing, just questioning.
If you've done this and it works, then great. Just seems like a bit of a hassle. Why not get two 4' long pieces of PVC pipe and fill them with gravel or concrete and glue the end caps on. U-bolt one on each side of the inside I-beam at the rear of the frame beams. Will dang sure add a lot more effective weight than the air pressure mod PLUS the weight will be on the sprung section of the frame, not the unsprung (wheel/tire/axle). It will also be there always not making you carry a pump with you and/or destroy your tires.
02-22-2003 | 07:15 AM
#23
Member #154
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,002
Likes: 1,077
From: SW CT & Long Island Sound
Originally posted by East Coast B
As for painting galvanized, I've painted my galvanized tire rims a metalic silver and the paint has held up perectly. No pealing... Just have to take care when taking the lug nuts on and off. I have always waited a year so the galvanization wore a bit before applying the paint. My current rims are 3 years since painted, still fine.
As for painting galvanized, I've painted my galvanized tire rims a metalic silver and the paint has held up perectly. No pealing... Just have to take care when taking the lug nuts on and off. I have always waited a year so the galvanization wore a bit before applying the paint. My current rims are 3 years since painted, still fine.
02-22-2003 | 08:00 AM
#24
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
Couldn't get a good pic where the boat is parked right now, here is one from this summer, doesn't show rims very well, but you can see they don't look the dullish grey.... Long as the galvanized is weather enough and cleaned to move residual oils, I haven't had any problems with the paint adhering....
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