We have never used synthetic in anything. Our fleet of vehicals run on quakerstate. The boat motors run valoline VR1. I like good old thick oil. :D

A interesting fact I read. Last few motors I have run GM camshafts, in which are crane cams. In the instructions they have a huge warning telling the installer not to run synthetic with the roller cams :confused: They say if there is not enough spring pressure the roller could actually slip on the cam lobe and create a flat spot, all because the synthetic is so slippery. It sorta baffled my mind.


:D

I think a lot of lubrication problems in boat motors is because of two things.... oil viscosity.. and oil temperature.... too thick.. and too cold... oil lubricates best when it is 200 degrees .. How many of you guy get your oil up to 200 degrees? I know some blown engines have oil coolers so large the oil never gets above 70 degrees... and Crane technologies that makes the hydraulic roller lifters recommends no thicker than 10-40 oil or the lifter won't pump enough oil up the push rod to lubricate the valve rockers and cool the valve springs. Another problem is all the plumbing that gets added.. Original equipment oil pumps driven off the distributor drive weren't engineered to push oil down 25 feet of hose and coolers and remote filters.All that extra distance makes for great back pressure.. but less flow. I've noticed that all aftermarket engine builders love to measure the oil pressure as close to the pump as possible. The difference in pressure from start side to the finish side on all the oiling equipment is astounding. 80 lbs at the start.. 40 lbs at the finish... and then some people wonder why their bearings and engines fail prematurely. The other thing I've seen is measuring the oil temperature AFTER it has passed through the cooler.. I suggest measuring the temperature in the pan. I'd rather know what the oil is doing AFTER it has come off the engine parts.... if you see a temperature "spike" .. then you know your engine is having a problem... what is the point of measuring the temperature after the fact? I want to know what the engine is doing... if there is a failure starting.. you will see it with the higher oil temperature. How can you tell if you look at the oil temperature after it has been cooled?

1 year old thread:D

Yes, that can happen. But that means the friction between the cam lobe and the lifter is less than the friction in the lifter bearings.

Bottom line, that is EXTREMELY low friction, which means that it will take a really long time for any flat spots to form. With conventional oil, your lifters (and other parts) would have worn out before then anyway.

moble 1 every 10 hours changed!my Z06 vette is factory filled with moble 1!

Curious what Sterling recomends?

I was a huge fan of mobil1......ran it in almost everything except the bike.
I put a little simple theory into it and figured that MY boat doesn't get much use and sits for extended periods..No good. who cares right?

Well what I came up with is Rotella or Delvac.

I run the Delvac in my Blazer and the Merc.The Blazer loves it...no real consumption.
The boat thinks the same.....It's all still there and oddly clean.
To me that says alot about it's soot and moisture control.
Remember Diesel's get worked and forgot about.terrible soot and moisture in them........kinda like a marine engines life.....food for thought!;)

redline in merc 575s innercooled blower motors and amsoil in drives lets see how it lasts... :eureka:

Mobil 1

Re: Poll: Synthetic engine oil or no?
 

mobil 1, change every 25 hours

Re: Poll: Synthetic engine oil or no?
 

I agree in that the drive has been showing no metal on the magnets since Mobil-1 gearlube. Redline has a higher heat rating and is the highest rated so I am switching. As far as the engine Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin is the best with a 518*F Flashpoint and the highest HTPP numbers. Redline is equal and all the rest go down the list in performance capabilities with Amsoil being # 3 then RP 4th going by THEIR data.

The OIL FILTER is more important than the oil according to Bob's oil site. I use a Mobil-1 or baldwin filter or the Amsoil HD which is a Baldwin.

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Mobil 1

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Most high performance conversion companies (now called tuners) use Redline. Mostly 10W-30 for cars up to 800 HP. I do think Redline from everything I read is the best stuff out there; especially in lower viscosities. I am going to say their 20W-50 is around near equal to Mobil-1 V-Twin.

If I wasn't using V-Twin my next consideration would be Redline.

Mobil-1 V-Twin has high ester content that prevents condensation dispersal and facilitates better burn-off easier.

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Mobil 1

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amsoil in everything.

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Mobil 1 all the way.

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My son and I were invloved in IMSA endurance auto racing in the 80's after I stopped racing offshore.

The only oil that lasted through a 24 hour race was synthetic. Many hours at redline and the engines were just fine.

In some of the GTO classes, Corvettes, Camaros, etc. the only way a rear end would live for the entire 24 hours was to use synthetics.

I still break my engines in with regular oil, but use synthetics after that. One word of caution if you have Harleys.....they have their own blend of synthetic and it works better for those engines than does Mobil 1 or some of the others.

Charlie Sr.

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I am sorry, prelube is a waste of money. my 2 cents

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Amsoil is a rip off.

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In a car that is run everyday maybe, not in an application where the motor sits for weeks at a time. Takes a long time to build pressure. The money, $150 vs $40,000 for a motor, not much of a waste. I also give them a light Marvel fogging if I know they will sit for more than a week.

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:rolleyes: :D Ok now, you can't make a crack like that without backing it up. And no, your other Amsoil bashing thread doesn't do it either. :p I mean something other than "Amsoil didn't cut my fuel consumption in half". :D

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or i didnt gain 10 mph!

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I do the MMO thing also if I think it's going to sit a while. I love that stuff! :D

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M1 20/50 vtwin 50hour changes. engine
Redline heavy shockproof 50 hour changes. bravo-1
Accusump pre-oiler.
M1 oil filter.

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How's that V-twin working?

It's an amazing product.

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Very happy with it Hydro. Now that summer temps are here I can say that hot idle pressure is almost 10psi better at 240* oil temp + overall oil temps are down about 10*

We just switched our TUSA Modified Lite race cars over to it at begining of this season. The engine builder called during scheduled freshen up to see what we were running as he had never seen the bearings in such good condition.

One thing though. This stuff stains like no oil I have ever used. Be very careful not to get it on Vinyl or clothing it does not come out!

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Wow, a bunch of oldies getting dug up today! :D

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i have a lot of mobil 1 synth 0-40 european formula,do you guys think i can use it in my merc 454?

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Yes...it does leave a brown stain if spilled...

and...WOW your engine builder called to see what oil you used because he never saw bearings in such good condition??

Finally some proof that Mobil V-Twin is totally where it is at!
Any engine at or above 500 HP NEEDS it baby!

V-twin is THE one to beat....it is a rock solid product! :D

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Bob's guys do not like Mobil's European 0W-40 much at all in automobiles from UAO tests it does not hold up real well. In a boat it would fair even worse I am afraid.

It's the only Mobil product that is not looking all that great. It has way too much viscosity enhancers in it and they shear down way too much under heat and high load.

Save it for your power mower or tractor or try to exchange it maybe use it in a leased vehicle or something if you get my drift.

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thanks for the reply

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What engines fo you run??

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Mobil 1 20-50
M1 filter

I have heard elsewhere that the new extended life blend (gold cap)from Mobil 1 does not have enough additive in it compared to the old Silver cap blend.

Any truth to that?

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Unfortunately yes...Mobil-1 15W-50 no longer can meet all CH-4 requirements...it previously could...though they are tough diesel engine mandates they benchmarked how good the Redcap was...for gas engines//may Redcap RIP.

Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin is unaffected....there is no doubt that it is the best oil for your marine engines...we are hearing stories about main bearings looking too good to be true on teardown and a mechanic I spoke with in Florida said he never saw a 1050 Sterling engine look so good after 50 hours...which was a bit past normal tear-down. Know how many engines blow due to a main bearing blow out related to poor lubrication? A lot! :D

If you can pop near $10.00/qt it will save you a ton of money in an expensive engine. Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin is a totally ester derived oil. It does not have polymers to enhance viscosity. It really is a straight wt 50 that behaves like a 20W-50 when you look at the Cst's...it is the world's best "20W-50"
in my humble opinion. It won't break down ...it won't stop protecting your bearings..and it will increase oil pressure about 10 lbs and decrease engine running temps. by 10 degrees we are seeing as well.

Now in cool weather switch to 15W-50 Mobil-1....this stuff is too heavy for cool to to cold weather...it is a true hard running summer oil.

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I've seen the V Twin at local Autozone's but its spendy. Anyone have a vendor that sells at a discount? Walmart, Target, etc do not stock it around here.

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http://store.avlube.com/mob1vtwinair1.html

6 qts for $44.50

Hey it is the world's best 20W-50 ester based automotive oil that could be used in a 747....

...use Mobil-1 Goldcap 15W-50 if it's too much $$$....

...but if you are running a hopped up engine or anything over 500 HP then this is my strong recommendation. :D

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Just bought 20 quarts M1 15/50 @ $5.36/qt (Walmart) The 5 gallon jugs were $23.82 each. :eek:

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That's what I bought and put in this spring. M1 15W-50 for the price of Merc lube.

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All of the Walmart Supercenters in our area (Texas) has set up little motorcycle sections in their automotive departments. They stock Bell helmets, gloves, filters and oils. They all have V-Twin for $6.88 per quart.

Saleen, that sounds like a good reason to bring your darling wife down to Texas for a visit! I'll buy you the freaking oil!! :evilb: :D

JimG

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$6.88 for V-Twin is a steal. Mobil had to drop the price to compete with Harley's brand of synthetic oil I hear. :D

...Mobil told me they don't have a 20W-50 labeled for auto use because it is very thick oil and as far as boating goes....they told me the anti-corrosion protection it offers is amazing as it prevents dry-starts after even a few months of storage. Mobil ran this oil in a V-Twin bike for hundreds of hours and it protected bearings and cylinders 30% better than 15W-50 redcap...and 60% better than a conventional 20W-50. I just wish they would publish this stuff...

They said the oil market is very competitive and labeling this "V-Twin" created a niche' for it to sell better.

They also said they have found that the John Deere Guys use it in heavy Farm Equiptment...word gets out fast!