battery(+) to coil(+)

you can get the marine ones at Napa or Boatfix.com. About the same price when you figure shipping. Oh and Walmart may have them too.

US1 Fountain is right----

+of battery to +of coil bypasses the entire harness for ignition power. THen hit the key to start, if it runs, the problem is the switch or harness.

good luck!

But in those years, wasn't there an ignition resistor? (or something like that). It allowed B+ voltage to the coil while cranking, then as soon as the engine started and you released the key from start to run position, it lowered the voltage to the coil while the engine was running?
Or are we talking about the same thing?

Yes, there is, or was a resistor in the system. This is to allow the engine to fire on less than 12 volts it will be putting out while cranking the starter. I think in the old days it was also to help keep the points from burning, which isn't an issue now days.

Well this one does have points.....What fun huh?

But remember she will stay lit if the key is held in the start position.Just when it turns back it dies!

There is a small rectangular ceramic part next to the coil and carb.It has two wires. One on each end.

Am I correct on thinking the ignition switch is the piece with the key in it and the assembly behind it.

Check the wires at the coil, older boats and cars have three wires running to the coil, two on the positive side and one on the negative. When the ignition is in the on position (lower) voltage is sent through one of the positive wires, when the ignition is in the start position (higher) voltage is sent through the other one. Whoever reinstalled the motor may have missed one wire at the coil. GM used this two wire setup so that when starting the motor there is more voltage going to coil, it made starting easier, unfortunitly these wires ran through the starter , so you may want to check the starter wires also. There may be a wire on the wrong terminal of the starter.

Hope that helps.

Brian

Ohhh yea, the small ceramic thing is to lower the voltage supplied to the coil. This is only used when the ignition switch is in the on position. Use a test light and check both terminals of it with the ignition in the on postion. If the light comes on for one side but not the other, replace it. If it does not come on at all you have a problem at the ignition switch or maybe the starter. If they both come one then check the positive terminal on the coil with the test light.

Brian

That small ceramic thing is a ballast resistor, it drops voltage to the distributor (Chrysler used these years ago in their cars)
to test jump the wires on the ballast resistor and see if the engine runs if so replace the resistor
FYI: A full 12 volts to coil will eventually burn it out

Thanx guys I got her......

I checked the resistor and one of the wires was shrink wrapped but broken off inside......put new terminal on it and Presto!

Cleaned the cap and rotor up a touch and just touched the key.Purred like a kitten....... Found another peice of wood behind a cushion to replace so off to the garage to cut away...................