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Big Boat trailer question???

Old 08-01-2003, 06:45 PM
East Coast B's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
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I've got a fastload, fast load, ordered two of them now. Great price, I get them with all the extra options. Torsion axels, disc brakes, stainless Ubolts, extra bunks, spare tire. Problem with them is both were delivered LATE. Striping was missing on the first trailer. Spare tire was missing on first one, first one didn't have the stainless U bolt package that I paid for. They sent me the ubolts, just not all of them. First one had a bad backup solonoid on it. Second one also was missing the spare time. When I hooked up my lights on the second one, it blew my fuses in the truck because they torqued down a nut onto the wiring on the trailer. The second one had the stripes on this time, but dammed crooked. They sent me new ones. The first time I towed with the first one, one of the disc brakes let loose the two hex bolts holding on the kodiak brake assembly and it scattered onto the road. Trying to get them to send me the missing parts or replacing parts was like pulling teeth. Once I got each one together properly, I haven't had a problem since and they towed perfectly straight. I like the way the mount the jack between the two ibeams rather than a bolt on the side piece of junk. For the price they get, I don't mind dealing with the headache of getting it right and doing the work myself, I just wish they would get me the parts without having to call 30 times. I'm going to check owens and sons next time and look at a gooseneck for better towing and what I think will give me a shorter overall length than the standard Ibeam. With Ibeam to the rear hitch there is about 6 or 7 feet until the tip of the boat. I'd like to know if a gooseneck Ibeam would eliminate that wasted space and shorten my turning radius. Good luck!!! Spend your money once on what will do the best job!!!! I love painted metal trailers, I just don't like the rust issue with them a few years down the road. If your only in fresh water, you would be OK. It only takes one salt dump to start eating away at it...
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Old 08-01-2003, 08:08 PM
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Location: Indy
My Boats: 2004 37 ActiveThunder
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I bought a Loadmaster for my 28 and have not had any trouble at all. I have put several miles on this thing and on some bad roads but it pulls straight as an arrow and rides great. I will admit the myco is a better trailer but for the difference in price I am happy.
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Old 08-01-2003, 09:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tampa, FL USA
My Boats: 2000 Outerlimits
Posts: 416

When I bought my Fastload I specified Stainless hardware, spare tire carrier, Kodiak SS brake calipers, center bunks, additional crossmembers, GoodYear Wrangler tires, etc. If you say you want an Andy Buzz trailer, Rusty will know what you mean.

They measured my Outerlimits and made steps in the bunks perfectly. They delivered the trailer all custom made to my specs in four days.

I admit that I am a picky bastard. They earned my business based on being eager to build the trailer with my combination of brands. They had to special order the hubs, brakes, fenders, and tires as they generally use other brands that in my research were not as good. Most companies dont want to use your suggestions and balt at trying vendors other then what they stock. These guys aim to please.

Most companies will build a trailer for your 38 on 36foot I beam or lets say the boat hangs off four feet. I even specified only a one foot overhang. This means longer I beam that requires going to a taller wider beam.

My old trailer was a 99 Myco steel trailer. It was rusty from salt water and in need of new backing plates etc. Myco makes an awesome trailer for the crosscountry race team etc. The steel is not for salt water. They make aluminum "top of the line" trailers that cost almost three times a Fastload. I feel that with the upgrades that I selected, the Fastload does what it needs to do and gets the boat from point a to point b perfectly even at speeds around 80 mph. Sure they Myco is better as it is welded rather than bolted and uses angle beams vs flat wood bunks. I just cant justify the price difference unless you are going to paint graphics on the trailer.

A gooseneck is overkill. There are plenty of ways to spend money on a boat. I checked everyone and did the research and have purchased four trailers in five years from various sources. Lets says that no company is perfect in the labor field with a mistake proofed transaction but the Fastload works great and I feel will last many years.
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Old 08-02-2003, 01:49 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Ocean City, MD
My Boats: 39' Cigarette Top Gun, Donzi 22 Classic, 36 Yellowfin
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Fun Home: 3 of the trailers are triple axle and one is a tandem dually.

The first one is an aluminum triple axles tag used to carry a canopied Cigarette Gladiator (Top right in picture). This trailer has electric over hydraulic brakes with discs on all wheels, a pair of 8' tool boxes, horizontal spare tire mount between the framerails, LED lighting, torsion axles and a swing out drive guard.

The second triple axle carries a 39' Kryptonite (Top center in picture). This trailer is identical to the one above with two exceptions. It has 4' tool boxes instead of 8' boxes and the spare tire is mounted vertically instead of horizontally.

The third triple axle is actually available for sale as of a few days ago (Top left in picture). It was used to carry the Gladiator. It was rear ended a year ago, forcing us to remove the drive guard. Fortunately, the rest of the trailer is OK. We relpaced the trailer so that we would have a drive guard for the race boat. I imagine that Myco could relpace the drive guard, but until the case was settled (finally over now) we had to leave the trailer alone. This trailer is a steel triple axle (white) tag with bridgeworks, inertia disc brakes, LED lighting, torsion axles, two 8' tool boxes and a horizontal spare tire mount between the frame rails.

The tandem dually is used to carry a 45' Apache. It is painted steel (white) with drum brakes on all wheels, a water tank and pump for washdown/flushing, a fuel tank for a generator, two 8' tool boxes, two 4' tool boxes and is pulled with a pintle hitch. I am currently looking at replacing this trailer with a gooseneck because of the weight and length of this boat.

To answer the last part of your question, we use an F-450 dually as a tow vehicle. I think that an F-350 dually would tow these trailers fine, but with the amount of mileage we travel each year, I like having the larger brakes of the F-450.
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Old 08-02-2003, 08:14 AM
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Brad buy a gooseneck if it fits your budget. It will pull better than a bumper pull. It will also give you a better ride. I have to agree on MYCO.
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Old 08-02-2003, 06:28 PM
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Location: In the Mountains
My Boats: was a 89" Formula 311-SR1
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Loadmasters are popular here on the west coast of Florida, for the money they make a good trailer. Myco is top shelf, but you pay for it, and if you use it regularly in salt water, it really gets expensive for their aluminum rig. For your boat you don't need a gooseneck, a 2 and 5/16's 10,000 lb. rated ball will do just fine. My boat fully loaded is about 8400 lbs., I pull it with an 01' 2500 V-10 4 wheel drive quad cab Dodge, 4:10 gearing, and that truck barely even knows the boat is back there. A good set of brakes on the trailer and your good to go.
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