Hey Michael,

I'm going to be up your way tomorrow looking at a boat. It's at the end of Court House Point road just outside the mouth of the C&D. Hope it pans out better than the one in Florida, at least it's closer.

-Greg

Yup, if you can't get to the back you are using a bandaid. The plate is the best idea. Those toggles are used for hanging pictures and fictures in drywall, not supporting a 150lb + person putting 500lbs of preasure on the seat after coming off a wave. Then you will really have a mess when these let go. You can rent a 6" hole saw for $10 and be done in 15min each side. Buy the cover and a few stainless screws and you are done for good. I like closure, I hate wondering. Thats why I am single now. Depending on the space between screws, the toggle hole will really compromise the integrity of the deck and when they pull loose you will have a giant hole that is unusable again. With the plate, use nylon lock nuts. I can't believe this was not done the first time. Screws will always strip and pull out. You would never screw a wheel to a hub now would you, you bolt them. Where do you live, I am on my way with the hole saw. One thing, be sure you are not hitting a stringer with the holesaw.

my .02 buy a small round access cover , route out your floor to make it fit flush and whalla! though bolt with a backing plate. do it in the center of the bolster so you have access to all if the rest ever pull out.

Here you go, stainless and you can get them in any west marine.
Toggle bolt

I agree w/ the access hole,, Mitch,, plug in the hole-saw.. ...recess it, put it right in the middle like baja does, and you can reach either one

Another idea, a 10" hole and put a sub in it when you are done. Recessed is a good idea, make sure you seal the exposed glass to keep water from wicking in. One under each seat in the middle. Any water that settles in the sub will be blasted out in one note

Ohhh the insanity

The 10" sub is a good idea and a good place to keep the cat.......never thought of that.
How about coming through the bottom, shouldnt be to hard, just slide under the trailer and its right there.

Seriously though, I know the best way to do it would be the access hole. Its only 4 screws that are loose out of 16 so Im not trying to completely remount them.
My concerns with the access hole would be,
How much clearance between the fuel tank and deck. I suspect not alot considering how deep the cockpit is. If I cut the hole it could end up being for naught.
Ill have to see if I can stick a coat hanger or piece of wire and see if I cant get a better idea of how deep it is.
Thanks for the replies.......and the laughs

Have you thought about using larger screws?

Try these. They are FANTASTIC. Put them in with Resin on them and they should last a VERY long time. They are also STAINLESS so no worries about Galvanic Corrosion. I like the TNT Idea but I would be worried about them spinning if I had to ever take out the bolster. There are a few others that are cool that I will see if I can find later.

Jon