After:

Notice Surge Brake Coupler in full compressed position, and angle of chain to allow front/back movement of Coupler.

Notice Coupler now in full extended (forward towing, no brakes applied) postion, and angle of chains to allow front/back movement. No, I have not noticed any brake dragging. I have checked coupler movement via tape measure with and without the WD bars in place. I also regularly check my brakes, hubs, and tires with a Laser Pyrometer Gun at every stop when towing. No ill effects (or signifigant heat buildup by dragging brakes).

In picture 3, you can see how I added a second tongue jack, adding much more stability, plus it looks cool. Its also a helluva lot easier to lift the tongue this way, and greatly reduces trailer twist when on the stand. I did have to notch the forward flat I-Beam connecting strip of aluminum on the trailer, which was very easy with a sawzall and cold chisel.

I am very happy with the way it tows. I can definately tell the difference when towing, and even helped with wind gust control when passing 18-wheelers. Best part is I am legal, and it tows great, and still stops just as well as it did before the installation of the WD bars.

When I arrive at the ramp, I remove the WD bars and stow them. They go back on before the tow home. I also remove them when backing the boat into its spot at home, and install the WD bars when leaving the house, after the boat is out of the yard, and out on the street. I did not think I would use them for local towing, but just the piece of mind knowing I am set up correctly when they are installed is worth the 60 seconds of hook-up time.

Putnam XDR has the highest wieght carrying rating of any 2" hitch. Have 2" drop solid ball mount and big dia. shank, 1" rise, solid raw heat treated 20K ball on it. Don't forget the big balls are available with rise bases to fine tune your hieght. I did, and it is perfect.

"I've got the biggest...balls of them all" AC/DC

http://www.ultrahitch.com/perfect_drop_bar.html

These fit a standard 2" reciever and are rated to 14,000 lbs.

Do the holes in the frame of the truck from the factory hitch match the holes for the new hitch or did you have to make new ones for mounting the heavier duty hitch?

Bajaboat,
Its the factory Class III hitch still on the truck. Rated for 7k lbs Weight Carrying and rated for 12.5k lbs Weight Distributing.

Your drawbar and your hitch ball can be rated to tow the Moon if you want, but if your hitch on your truck is still the original Class III, you are only legal for what I listed above, or close to it.

The only way to go to a heavier load; Weight Carrying, without going to a Weight Distributing Hitch setup like I have, is upgrade to a Reese Titan V (5), hitch reciever on your truck, with a 2.5 inch drawbar shaft. I was not convinced this was the correct setup for me.

overkill on the drawbar and ball is just another way to eliminate weak links. Have you seen the discussion about the crosspins, load stress, and the metallurgy(sp) involved in that little part of the program? The XDR is 1500 tongue/15000 lbs. wieght carrying.

Have you seen the "Trailer Trapper"? to prevent couplers coming off for any reason.