p4-33

One last thing, remove the pump cap and fill the pump to the top. The last bit of air in the pump should bleed itself out into the reservour when cranking the wheel around when the motor is running.

Good luck,
Brian

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

I had the line off of the ram resealing them . I am sure the got air in them then.

When I went to the lake last night I did some full lock turns trying to let it self bleed also. did not change the feel none .


Now when I was bleeding the rams at the lines I would crack open and let a little fluid out and would not see any air . Are you saying empty the line on that ram . I would think it would just keep pumping from the rez??


The steering has always been stiff on the boat and a bit ch to bleed.

thanks

Lmarth

Rob- Between Falcon and Brian you can't go wrong. I'd definitely remove the filter element to eliminate that as a contributor. I think it's highly unlikely that leaving the pump sitting around is now causing you a problem. Knowing you, you've done everything right. You'll get it. Wish I were there to help. Lou

p4-33

If you've had the ram lines off, you need to bleed the system at the rams. This is where it gets messy, and you'll use a lot of fluid getting it done.

First step is to make sure the supply/return (pump) circuit is full and bled. That's just a matter of making sure the pump and reservour is full, and cranking the wheel around.

Then the three-person process begins. Crank the wheel to one side and hold it there. Crack the line on the farthest ram from the helm that is supplying pressure to the ram - the one farthest from the extended ram. Let it bleed a bunch of fluid, so you're sure no air is left. While the wheel is in the same position, crack loose the opposite fitting on the opposite ram, let it bleed.

Make sure the guy (or gal) filling the reservour keeps up the level.

Crank the wheel to the other side, and bleed the opposite fittings, keeping the fluid level up in the reservour.

Repeat about 3 times and you should be good to go. This job sucks. Warm exhaust water blowing in your face, ATF everywhere, it's no picnic. But it should get you where you need to be.

Good luck,
Brian

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

Say with the starboard side fully extended [out] I bled the hose closest to the transom and on the port the one farthest from the transom.Then I truned it the other way and did the opposite. Does this sound right????

p4-33

Sounds right. With the ram fully extended, the fitting closest to the transom is the one supplying pressure. On the opposite ram (retracted), the fitting farthest from the transom is also supplying pressure. These should both be bled with the wheel cranked and gently held at the stop in the same direction.

Crank the wheel the other direction and do the opposite 2 fittings.

racer-x6

Did you get this fixed?

Linster

I've never cracked any lines or fittings, all I did was start the engine & turn the wheel back and fourth until it cleared itself. I had someone helping me to keep the pump full. I would not crack any fittings.

I put a new steering on my old boat and did the same thing just adding fluid to the pump. I doubt if you got the lines mixed up. I can take up to 4-6 quarts if mostly empty.

Good Luck !

racer-x6

Remove the High pressure line from the pump and take the fitting off. if the check ball is stuck or rusted from being exposed during your rebuild. this would explain the why the system looks like it is bleeding all the air out. but when you turn the wheel it is not flowing enough fluid for the power assist. Hope this helps, lets ride.

p4-33

Just passing along what the folks at Latham told me to do when I installed my new system. It's a sure-fire way to make all the air in the lines go away.

With the motors off, my drives don't budge even 1/32" when trying to move them by hand. If there's any air in the ram circuit, they'll move and feel spongy.

Brian