Vinny P

Dick,
As you said the other night on the phone, those holes you drilled look real close to the outer edge of the bushing. I can see from the picture that the groove doesn't go all the way down the bushing. I just hope there is enough material left to keep everything happy and in place.

Mr Gadgets

There is more material left at the bottom of the bore than this pic shows. I dont think that will be an issue. I did figure out why some lifters were not fitting in some of the holes. The pin has sides to it and the slot needs to be the proper depth. After getting the slot lenght, I ran the bit up and down quickly and it seemed to open it up a bit and the lifter falls right into place without binding now.. All in how you drill the hole, as they say?? So far I am very happy with my progess. We'll see how they hold up. Going to run the H out of it this summer to test my drive. Besides, gas the following summer wont be any cheaper..

tomcat

Dick: How long is the slot? If you were starting from scratch without bushings do you think it would be feasible for a good shop to install bushings that were already slotted? Which approach is more likely to put the slot in exactly the right place?

Mr Gadgets

I know LSM did that very thing back when I had them bush my block in 99. The bushings for the Jessels that they used at that time were slotted and installed in the block. Not sure how they indexed them, but probably on one of their CNC machines.
The slots I am cutting are about 7/8" - 1" long. It would be much easier to push in slotted bushing, but I figured the drilling wouldnt be so difficult. I think the material the bushings are made of is why I am having so much difficulty. I have managed to get the time down to about 30 or 40 mins. per hole. The drill I am using is turning about 100rpm. very slow! The bit will bind up and then I use a diamond bit in a dremel tool to open it up. So far so good. The tool Joe made for this is a hardened plug with the slot and a bar that goes to another plug in the lifer bore next to it on the same plane ( exhaust/exhaust or intake/intake).
I am happy with how things are working out.. just slow progess..

Dick

Vinny P

Dick,

I am curious... Could you post a picture of the jig that Joe makes for the drilling?

Mr Gadgets

Sure Vinny... here you go!

I keep tryin to attach em.. not much luck.. hmmm
I will start all over again...

Mr Gadgets

One more time..

Vinny P

I like it, simple and functional.

Mr Gadgets

Yeah.. Simple and functional.. 8 done, 8 more to go.. whew.

WETTE VETTE

I have run Comp, Crane and now Isky solid rollers. I have only had one go bad and that was the Comp, which I caught before it came apart. The key is routine valve lash checks. I use Eickert 2 pc valve covers and can have the lash checked in about 10 minutes, which is no big deal. I also run Jesel shaft rockers, which rarely ever move more than .001" between lash settings. If all of a sudden one is .005" - .010" more lash than original setting there is probably something going on. If you keep the net lift at .680 - .700 and use a cam with gentle ramps it is a plus. Also don't go crazy with spring selection. Many drag race guys are using 300+ seat pressure springs, which will not live in a marine engine very long. I like the broad power band and increased RPM potential of solids, but regular checks and maintenance is required!! Good luck!

Mr. Gadgets,
Keep us posted on the new stuff you are trying!! It looks cool!