There were a few I saw at www.Bobistheoilguy.com posted under UOA's.

The iron and lead numbers on a few were higher than expected. Iron is cylinder wear and lead is from bearings.

I filled out the Redline web site's oil recommendation questionaire describimg my marine motor and usage. They recommended their 10W40 "or 15w50 if oil pressure is an issue". An interesting side comment offered was that minimum oil pressure should be 10 psi per 1000 rpm's. With 48 psi (hot) at 5800 rpm's I am falling way short of that.

Thanks!

I'd look into NEO and Torco as well as Motul. One or both use ester base-stocks last I checked.

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/

http://www.torcousa.com/product.html

We "heard" Merc uses Torco in it's big drives...


I personally have found that mixing 50/50 M-1 EP 15W-50 with Motul 15W-50 gives outstanding wear numbers. Just pour in half of each and let the eninge mix it up. :)

Thanks Hydrocruiser for the additional options to consider. I am a little hesitant on these last two since they seem at first blush to be more oriented toward racing oils. I don't see myself in need of a pure race oil. How would one become knowledgable about their oil's performance in a marine engine that spends very little time at WOT?

With your operation considerations the best oil for you may be M-1 15W-50 Siiver Cap with 25-30 hour changes.

I think it is a GRP III/IV Blend with lots of ZDDP. Excellent stuff at $ 6.00/qt at Wally Land.

Maybe you are right.

I saw the M1 Silver Cap in Wally World today. $6.27/qt. If you want the gallon it is $26.00 or $6.50/qt. The bottle is labled "FULL SYNTHETIC". I wonder what that is the code for in the symantics of the retail oil industry ???????????

Sorry. I woke up feeling like being a little pissy today.

Bill

Are those gallons or 5 quart jugs? I thought they were 5 quart jugs.

"Full Synthetic" is not "100% Synthetic". It is a highly refined petroleum product with synthetic base stocks and additives blended into it.