what about Valvoline VR1- 40W, and a K/N 3002 filter, basically stock 502, should I use the 10 qts that I have remaining or use it in the truck.

Thanks

Well the VR1 isn't a bad oil, it's not comparing apples to apples. The VR1 is not a synthetic oil like Amsoil is and based on the facts of the oil content the Amsoil is going to last longer and do a better job of protecting for whatever amount of hours you have your oil in your engine for. The valvoline will break down a little faster then the Amsoil 20/50 or 10/40. The K & N filter isn't bad if you like stuff made over seas, vs. stuff made in America! Let me know if I can help you out any more.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx

Not Right, the valvoline is ok stuff, I personally would use the 20w50 over the straight 40 for two reasons, better film strength when hot and faster oil pressure when cold.

Zinc levels are more than enough, you will change your oil before the zinc issue becomes an issue.
I would't worry about the TBN numbers, the fuel purchased today is very. very low in sulfer. Flash point, your Valvoline is good to 470+ no worry, if your oil temp is 470 you will have other major things to worry about, pour point who cares, it's a boat, water is pretty hard at 30F.

My 2 cents.

Ken

Thanks, I'll switch to some 20/50, btw, I took a look at my K/N filter and it does say made in USA, if we still consider California parts of the US.

I believe that the K & N filters are now being made overseas where as they used to be made here; however, I may be mistaken and if I am, I apologize.

[QUOTE=Kidnova;2897665]With 20hr changes SilverCap would probably suit your needs. The base content and zddp levels are a bit lower I think. But still good stuff. Certainly better than dino oil.

I have news for you, the 4-ball wear test is a gimmick. Has no relevance to what goes on inside an engine. It's been discussed at length on bobistheoilguy.com. It's used as a pre-screen to test additives.

It's called marketing.

But they do compare 4-ball results to their competitor's products and if they are "ahead" sometimes... as you mention it... may indicate at least a stout anti-wear additive presence in their oils? That could be good?

What about custom blend oils? Haven't seen any info on that. I have access to someone who says he does custom blends for people and has been doing it for years. What can these people do and what would the be the ideal oil if he could do whatever you wanted?

So he's an "oiltender" of sorts...but never went to "oiltender" school?

All the mixing I need is done at my favorite pub.

To answer your question for example.....Mobil + Amsoil = Mobsoil (sounds like something that Capone' would use in the getaway car).