Promise.

Just send me an e-mail and I will get it to you that way.

Got another question...what engine builders recommend synthetics and which are saying conventionals?

Synthetics:
Volvo-Penta
Sterling
Illmor


Semi-synthetics:
Mercury marine 25W-40 brand

Keith Eickart recommends Kendall 20W50 for his $40k+ engines, as does Ritchie Zul. When Mercruiser came out with the HP1050SC, and recommended the Kendall, I was amazed!
But then again on many of these blower engines they are calling for 10 hour drains too. Lots of gasoline blows into the crankcase.

Stock motors are a different puppy.


I called around today and found that about 1/2 of the customers with expensive big engines us a 20W-50 synthetic product of one brand or another.

The 1050sci's were scrapped b/c of design flaws.

If Penske still owns any of Ilmor it would have to be Mobil 1. Ilmor of England used to build the engines for his IRL team.

I am curious.....what engines in the 1000 HP range are "reliable" if that word is appropriate?

none... or at least none that we have owned.

FYI...Fram and K&N

http://www.rexmar.com/page278.html

I posted this a minute ago and already got an e-mail...

"Which filters would I use on an HP 525"...

Well each filter is a compromise..either you get great filtration or great flow...then we have filters in the middle....

The Mobil-1 has exceptional filtering as does the Amsoil SD and both flow about as good as the Mercury Racing filters from the data in the recent most study..

The K&N's flow excellent and filter good and is my choice over a Fram HP...if you feel your continuous "redlining" needs flow over filtration the K&N is for you.

So for a stock HP 525 not used in extreme service... it's a toss up between a Baldwin Racing or Mobil-1 for me...The M-1 will filter a bit better...the Baldwin racing will flow a bit better. Your call.

I received an e-mail on looking into what the best drive lube is....and will it extend drive life...

-Well I have come to a conclusion that the high pressure additives in most lubes are close if not equal though some use phosphorous and some sulfur or moly or a combination. This is not a deciding factor as the lubes "GL" rating's are very similar in the synthetic arena amongst all lubes.

-Most synthetic lubes are PAO's or Group IV. bases.. so the bases and physical properties are close...Redline has predominately Group V. ester base composition and that may be THE determining factor if you are splitting hairs.

-Most use anti-corrosive additives and we have little data to show one is better than another.

I would say to pick either Redline; Amsoil Marine; Mobil-1 or Royal Purple. We don't need to do as much homework with lubes as we do with engine oils. We are not dealing with gas contamination...combustion products plus heat and shear. We do have load forces to contend with and most all lubes have the right additives to deal with load.

Whereas water contamination is an issue... usually if the drive blows a seal... it gets a lot of water in...not just "10%"....so don't even factor that into the equation.

Going synthetic and putting on a good shower are key factors in increasing drive life by decreasing friction and heat.. along with using the "buttons" and taking off gently. Air time is a big factor as well...as well as weight and correct prop size. Being a bit under-propped takes a lot of load off and gets you on plane smoother. Don't over pitch or you will pay later...the worng prop can place undo load and stress on the drive...follow these simple guidelines and our drive will last longer.

Synthetic lube changes are cheap as the volume of lube used is only a quart or two. I would change the lube with every oil change or every 20 hours. If you see water you may save the drive and pressure additives get spent and become less effective. Most offshore boaters I know don't follow these simple steps and break drives sooner than later.

My .02

"My local Target has non-EP M1 for $3.87 per quart. They also have M1 EP 15w-50 at the same price".

Check it out.