Anyway you can cool the lake off about 20 degrees?

I would like to see you try Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin with a very free flowing filter like a Fram HP.

Those are hopped up mills...I would also like to see you move up to Mobil-1 V-twin 20W-50 and if you put in a temp sensor add it someplace just after the oil cooler to see how well the cooler is working.

JP I see you are using Lucas additive...scroll down (bob's Lucas test link) to the picture of the Lucas frothing up....sure you want to still use it??? If your oil is frothing up like that no wonder you are seeing high temps.

Try straight Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin..the Amsoil dual filtration system is a great flowing unit I am told.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

This oil below has Lucas (rt side) in it and is frothing like mad...frothed up oil has a lot of air in it that traps heat and will not lubricate very well....ugh

I was asked what additives to use etc...

Most additives are not needed if you buy a High Performance oil. You want the manufacturer to determine which additives you need and test the oil. I am not advocating backyard oil chemistry.

What oil cooler??

http://www.hardin-marine.com/product...il-coolers.htm

Dual Tandem Oil Cooler 2" Diameter / 18" Length
This is one of the best designs anywhere. Two coolers and only one water hose connection. Each tube consists of thirty-one 1/4" seamless tubes with displacement baffles so you can be assured you're getting maximum cooling when you need it.

Thermostat controlled oil cooler..

http://www.hardin-marine.com/product...il-coolers.htm

"The Ultimate" Hi-Performance Thermostatically Controlled CoolerQuite simply, the ultimate oil cooler on the market today! It maintains oil temperature thermostatically and all in one unit. If you suffer from either high oil temperature or even moisture or condensation in your engine oil this is the answer. The oil thermostat is designed to maintain an oil operating temperature between 190 degrees and 215 degrees. The thermostat bypasses the cooler until operating temperature has been reached and then balances oil flow to maintain optimum oil temperature. This alone can save you from years of damage caused by operating your boat with too cold oil.

POsted on Mobil's site..


V-Twin M-1

"The formulation is based on the proven technology used in other Mobil 1 automotive products, yet they are optimized for the unique requirements of a motorcycle engine.

The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads.

As you know, a typical air-cooled V-twin's rear cylinder gets a lot hotter than the front cylinder – it's a matter of airflow. When it's hot out and you're stuck in traffic, the oil temperature in your bike climbs rapidly. Above about 250°F, conventional motor oil is going to break down. Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil is good to above 300F".

Most Mobil 1 is...

I received a question about what "EP" additives are...

...here goes in a nut-shell..

Extreme Pressure or EP additives are usually organometallic compounds of chlorine, sulphur, phosphorous, and other metals which coat metal surfaces with a soft metallic surface layer that "shears" easily. The theory here is that it is better to shear a soft metal layer than the base metal itself. EP compounds are usually used in differentials, transmissions, and gear boxes, where extreme contact pressures exist.

So EP additives essentially "take the hit" and protect your gears from wear.

Guys check into swepco products , they really are the best,have been using in all of our Nortechs and Drives also. Many engine builders are using now, simply wont mix with water in drives unlike torco, great friction fighting capabilities and increased longevity and horsepower.. Only oil Ron Potter uses, and his motors live and we get alot more enjoyable hours from his motors than the competition. how about 250hrs out of 850 and 150-200 from 1150.