Rage

I have no doubt about the reality of the BCK103 kit and I already have the shower.

What is the best bang for the buck in external steering for a 525hp package? After a brief search Nordic offers an ITS single ram for ~$1,800, IMCO looks like ~$1,200, other???

This is the first I have heard mentioned a higher performance oil cooler for this setup. I will not generally be doing any WOT for extended periods of time. When would a higher performance oil cooler really be needed?

Thanks!

Rage

I sure wish I had read this before I ordered mine!

Raylar

The stock oil cooler and cooling system on the 496's works just fine with the 525HP level of Raylar 103 kit addtion in most conditions. If the boat is used in higher 80 + degree water temperatures or 90 plus air temperatures or with our 106 - 600HP build-up kit then a bigger oil cooler is a must.
As for the question of Bravo drive strengths, I believe that if you are not jumping waves and swells a lot or slaming the throttles from a dead stop or from idle alot, that a showered Bravo with a billet top cap and regularly changed drive fluid will live just fine behind a 525HP 496 motor. An X or XR is better, but they break too when abused!
Just some thoughts.

Ray @ Raylar

Nordicflame

iTrader: (4)

Rage,
At last check Nordic uses WPM steering with the exception of the ITS/XR setup.
The IMCO installs very nicely depending where your exhaust exits. If your Rage is new, the exhaust is probably way out on the sides and is not in the way at all. You would need the IMCO SA-1 (~$1238) and HK-11 valve kit (~$140). This is the add on system and you can convert to full hydraulic later if you desire.
Dave

Rage

Dave,

Thanks. Yes I have the corner exhaust system.

What is the difference between what I would have after retrofitting the IMCO SA-1 and HK-11 valve kit versus a 'full hydraulic'.

Rage

Ray,

Thanks again for the info.

What do you think would be a good drive oil change interval with the Bravo 1, 525hp, drive shower and RedLine Shock Proof Heavy synthetic drive lube?

Any particular billet cap better than another or best buy?

What are the hardware differences between the 103 and the 106 kits?

Nordicflame

iTrader: (4)

Rage,
You would have to install a new helm assembly (wheel, hub(s), and motor and also the 4 hoses to the back.
You can do this cheaper than buying the whole thing from IMCO.
PM me if you'd like details.
Dave

Raylar

Rage:

I have heard from some experts on drives and most say that it depends how you are using the boat and at what temperatures. If you cruise a lot with an occasional WOT blast now and then in normal temps the concensus is every 50 hours with good fluids or once a season minimum. If you are running hard in poker runs, etc. 25 hours or less seems to be the advised interval. In any event its a good idea to drain a small amount of drive fluid out and look for problems like water in fluid or metal in fluid. These can indicate a problem with seals or inside parts that will be less expensive to repair if they are caught before something inside the drive scatters. Besides these drives only hold a few quarts of fluid and a few dollars in shorter change periods are a hell of a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt Bravo. This is not a bad place to be a little over particular. I am not sure which ones are the best, but the people at Max Machine Works or BAM can hook you up with a good one I am sure.
As for the hardware differences in our 103 and 106 kits, the top ends are the same with a bigger cam used in the 106 kit. The 106 kit requires you refit your block with forged pistons and forged rods for two reasons, one is strength to handle 600HP and two is to have a piston with sufficiently deep valve reliefs in the top of the piston to provide adequate valve to piston clearance required by a .625 lift cam. It also takes our bigger 1000cfm billet throttle body, an upgraded fuel pump and fuel water seperator, a bigger oil cooler, a set of good headers and our E-box programmer to reset the fuel tables of the Merc ECM . For those who would like the parts, we have them in stock and we are also now stocking our Signature exchange "blueprinted" blocks all set up with all forged internals and either forged supercharger or forged flat top N/A pistons and rods that we can ship with or without our 103 or 106 kit heads, intake,cam, etc. This makes quick changeouts a breeze. We drop you or your preferred shop an exchange ready to run motor. We ship the new motor less accessories, you or your shop pull the old motor, transfer all brackets, pumps, coolers lines, etc. drop the new motor in and put the old ( short block only) in the plastic shipping container and return it! We don't want the old intake or old iron heads. An incredibly equipped 496 powerhouse built by the industries 496 experts at Raylar, no long downtime, no hassle, no fuss and no hoping you can find a qualified marine engine builder in an throw away engine world! These motors can for an extra fee have a dyno breakin and dyno test results. For many here in the USA this is a great option if you don't have a good marine engine builder that you prefer to use. We do have some good ones throughout the country and some of these on OSO that can build you a great 496 with our parts.

Now that I have completely confused you!! I will stand by for clarifications!!


Ray @ Raylar

cobra marty

Nice, What is the pricing for your longblock exchange program?

Rage

Dave,
What are the ppros and cons of full hydraulic steering versus the mechanical steering with the external steering cylinder conversion?