Originally Posted by Raylar

Rage:

I have heard from some experts on drives and most say that it depends how you are using the boat and at what temperatures. If you cruise a lot with an occasional WOT blast now and then in normal temps the concensus is every 50 hours with good fluids or once a season minimum. If you are running hard in poker runs, etc. 25 hours or less seems to be the advised interval. In any event its a good idea to drain a small amount of drive fluid out and look for problems like water in fluid or metal in fluid. These can indicate a problem with seals or inside parts that will be less expensive to repair if they are caught before something inside the drive scatters. Besides these drives only hold a few quarts of fluid and a few dollars in shorter change periods are a hell of a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt Bravo. This is not a bad place to be a little over particular. I am not sure which ones are the best, but the people at Max Machine Works or BAM can hook you up with a good one I am sure.
As for the hardware differences in our 103 and 106 kits, the top ends are the same with a bigger cam used in the 106 kit. The 106 kit requires you refit your block with forged pistons and forged rods for two reasons, one is strength to handle 600HP and two is to have a piston with sufficiently deep valve reliefs in the top of the piston to provide adequate valve to piston clearance required by a .625 lift cam. It also takes our bigger 1000cfm billet throttle body, an upgraded fuel pump and fuel water seperator, a bigger oil cooler, a set of good headers and our E-box programmer to reset the fuel tables of the Merc ECM . For those who would like the parts, we have them in stock and we are also now stocking our Signature exchange "blueprinted" blocks all set up with all forged internals and either forged supercharger or forged flat top N/A pistons and rods that we can ship with or without our 103 or 106 kit heads, intake,cam, etc. This makes quick changeouts a breeze. We drop you or your preferred shop an exchange ready to run motor. We ship the new motor less accessories, you or your shop pull the old motor, transfer all brackets, pumps, coolers lines, etc. drop the new motor in and put the old ( short block only) in the plastic shipping container and return it! We don't want the old intake or old iron heads. An incredibly equipped 496 powerhouse built by the industries 496 experts at Raylar, no long downtime, no hassle, no fuss and no hoping you can find a qualified marine engine builder in an throw away engine world! These motors can for an extra fee have a dyno breakin and dyno test results. For many here in the USA this is a great option if you don't have a good marine engine builder that you prefer to use. We do have some good ones throughout the country and some of these on OSO that can build you a great 496 with our parts.

Now that I have completely confused you!! I will stand by for clarifications!!


Ray @ Raylar

Originally Posted by Raylar

Rage:

I have heard from some experts on drives and most say that it depends how you are using the boat and at what temperatures. If you cruise a lot with an occasional WOT blast now and then in normal temps the concensus is every 50 hours with good fluids or once a season minimum. If you are running hard in poker runs, etc. 25 hours or less seems to be the advised interval. In any event its a good idea to drain a small amount of drive fluid out and look for problems like water in fluid or metal in fluid. These can indicate a problem with seals or inside parts that will be less expensive to repair if they are caught before something inside the drive scatters. Besides these drives only hold a few quarts of fluid and a few dollars in shorter change periods are a hell of a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt Bravo. This is not a bad place to be a little over particular. I am not sure which ones are the best, but the people at Max Machine Works or BAM can hook you up with a good one I am sure.
As for the hardware differences in our 103 and 106 kits, the top ends are the same with a bigger cam used in the 106 kit. The 106 kit requires you refit your block with forged pistons and forged rods for two reasons, one is strength to handle 600HP and two is to have a piston with sufficiently deep valve reliefs in the top of the piston to provide adequate valve to piston clearance required by a .625 lift cam. It also takes our bigger 1000cfm billet throttle body, an upgraded fuel pump and fuel water seperator, a bigger oil cooler, a set of good headers and our E-box programmer to reset the fuel tables of the Merc ECM . For those who would like the parts, we have them in stock and we are also now stocking our Signature exchange "blueprinted" blocks all set up with all forged internals and either forged supercharger or forged flat top N/A pistons and rods that we can ship with or without our 103 or 106 kit heads, intake,cam, etc. This makes quick changeouts a breeze. We drop you or your preferred shop an exchange ready to run motor. We ship the new motor less accessories, you or your shop pull the old motor, transfer all brackets, pumps, coolers lines, etc. drop the new motor in and put the old ( short block only) in the plastic shipping container and return it! We don't want the old intake or old iron heads. An incredibly equipped 496 powerhouse built by the industries 496 experts at Raylar, no long downtime, no hassle, no fuss and no hoping you can find a qualified marine engine builder in an throw away engine world! These motors can for an extra fee have a dyno breakin and dyno test results. For many here in the USA this is a great option if you don't have a good marine engine builder that you prefer to use. We do have some good ones throughout the country and some of these on OSO that can build you a great 496 with our parts.

Now that I have completely confused you!! I will stand by for clarifications!!


Ray @ Raylar

Originally Posted by Escape Velocity

Blane,

I've got the new 1000 cfm throttle body too and it sure looks good! Better yet, I picked up 3 mph.

I like the look of the Raylar decorative plates on the valve covers and intake. Waiting to see the billet flame arrestor.

Randy

Originally Posted by SeaRay Jim

It would be a little bit of a haul from Table Rock, but Full Throttle Marine in Spicewood Texas, (west of Austin on the lake) would not only be the idea place to have to kit done (Bob built my motor and I wouldn't let anyone else touch my boat) but he's also a Nordic Dealer.

He's OSO member bobl or www.fullthrottlemarine.com for contact info.

Originally Posted by Rage

SeaRay Jim,

Thanks for the recommendation. Better to travel farther if I have to and have a motor that will hang together.