Trs removal
#1
Trs removal
Over the winer I plan on pulling my engines, trannies, and drives. i would like to regasket and paint everything!
Ive pulled bravos but never a TRS. Im sure they are heavier. Anything special about removing them? I assume I should remove the drives, then pull the engines along with the transmissions attached? Any info on this would be great.
Ive pulled bravos but never a TRS. Im sure they are heavier. Anything special about removing them? I assume I should remove the drives, then pull the engines along with the transmissions attached? Any info on this would be great.
#2
Re: Trs removal
they are heavy like you said but very easy to take off. 6 bolts and off she comes. No cables or anything else to deal with. When you re-install the drive its the last to go on. Engine/trans goes in before the drive. Also an trick i learned when doing my drives was to take a piece of string and masking tape and tape up the U-joint when installing to keep the shaft from wondering around all over the place. then when the shaft seats into the coupler...yank on the string and out it comes with the tape attached
__________________
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#3
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Re: Trs removal
Ok, here is one I have done several times MT. The TRS is pretty heavy but nothing one person cant handle without too much trouble. (I can lift it into my truck by myself and I'm not a big guy!) Another hand is really nice with them though. I usually put a block of wood or two under the skeg and slide the drive out on that nearly level so it does not drop, and helps keep all the parts lined up until they are all clear of the transmission. They are pretty simple to take off. I have never had any problems getting them out. A few wiggles and they almost fall out. They are a little more difficult to get back in but just requires turning the propshaft by hand to line everything up. I usually like an extra hand with re-installing. ( I also replaced one nut on each drive with McGard sterndrive locking nuts. I figure TRS's are getting more and more rare and a little security limits problems hunting down another drive if they were stolen)
The engine, transmission, and tailstock come out as one unit. If you want to take off the transmission and tailstock assembaly once the engine is out it is a simple matter of disconnecting the cooler hoses and unbolting the 6 (I think they are 1/2 inch) bolts between the engine flywheel housing and trans case, and a few wiggles there and the trans assy will come right off as well. I always leave the tailstock attached since if you take it off it dumps out all the fluid, and really adds almost no weight to the transmission.( I have stripping everything, un-bolting etc. down to about 40 minutes per engine) Hopefully I will not have to do it again for a long time.
Thanks for all your continued help with my ongoing project.
Todd
The engine, transmission, and tailstock come out as one unit. If you want to take off the transmission and tailstock assembaly once the engine is out it is a simple matter of disconnecting the cooler hoses and unbolting the 6 (I think they are 1/2 inch) bolts between the engine flywheel housing and trans case, and a few wiggles there and the trans assy will come right off as well. I always leave the tailstock attached since if you take it off it dumps out all the fluid, and really adds almost no weight to the transmission.( I have stripping everything, un-bolting etc. down to about 40 minutes per engine) Hopefully I will not have to do it again for a long time.
Thanks for all your continued help with my ongoing project.
Todd
Last edited by stinger390; 11-09-2005 at 07:31 PM.
#4
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Re: Trs removal
After you pull the drive, you need to remove the 6 bolts on the compression ring in the gimbal housing, then you can remove the engine and trans together as one unit.
#5
Re: Trs removal
Originally Posted by stinger390
Ok, here is one I have done several times MT. The TRS is pretty heavy but nothing one person cant handle without too much trouble. (I can lift it into my truck by myself and I'm not a big guy!) Another hand is really nice with them though. I usually put a block of wood or two under the skeg and slide the drive out on that nearly level so it does not drop, and helps keep all the parts lined up until they are all clear of the transmission. They are pretty simple to take off. I have never had any problems getting them out. A few wiggles and they almost fall out. They are a little more difficult to get back in but just requires turning the propshaft by hand to line everything up. I usually like an extra hand with re-installing. ( I also replaced one nut on each drive with McGard sterndrive locking nuts. I figure TRS's are getting more and more rare and a little security limits problems hunting down another drive if they were stolen)
The engine, transmission, and tailstock come out as one unit. If you want to take off the transmission and tailstock assembaly once the engine is out it is a simple matter of disconnecting the cooler hoses and unbolting the 6 (I think they are 1/2 inch) bolts between the engine flywheel housing and trans case, and a few wiggles there and the trans assy will come right off as well. I always leave the tailstock attached since if you take it off it dumps out all the fluid, and really adds almost no weight to the transmission.( I have stripping everything, un-bolting etc. down to about 40 minutes per engine) Hopefully I will not have to do it again for a long time.
Thanks for all your continued help with my ongoing project.
Todd
The engine, transmission, and tailstock come out as one unit. If you want to take off the transmission and tailstock assembaly once the engine is out it is a simple matter of disconnecting the cooler hoses and unbolting the 6 (I think they are 1/2 inch) bolts between the engine flywheel housing and trans case, and a few wiggles there and the trans assy will come right off as well. I always leave the tailstock attached since if you take it off it dumps out all the fluid, and really adds almost no weight to the transmission.( I have stripping everything, un-bolting etc. down to about 40 minutes per engine) Hopefully I will not have to do it again for a long time.
Thanks for all your continued help with my ongoing project.
Todd
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Re: Trs removal
Originally Posted by fleg1
After you pull the drive, you need to remove the 6 bolts on the compression ring in the gimbal housing, then you can remove the engine and trans together as one unit.
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Re: Trs removal
Good info guys. I wish I wish I knew of Wally's string/tape trick last month when I put my #5's back on. The one shaft kept flopping down. I'll try it next time.
#8
Re: Trs removal
Originally Posted by Lmarth
Good info guys. I wish I wish I knew of Wally's string/tape trick last month when I put my #5's back on. The one shaft kept flopping down. I'll try it next time.
__________________
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
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