MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Over the winer I plan on pulling my engines, trannies, and drives. i would like to regasket and paint everything!

Ive pulled bravos but never a TRS. Im sure they are heavier. Anything special about removing them? I assume I should remove the drives, then pull the engines along with the transmissions attached? Any info on this would be great.

Wally

iTrader: (1)

they are heavy like you said but very easy to take off. 6 bolts and off she comes. No cables or anything else to deal with. When you re-install the drive its the last to go on. Engine/trans goes in before the drive. Also an trick i learned when doing my drives was to take a piece of string and masking tape and tape up the U-joint when installing to keep the shaft from wondering around all over the place. then when the shaft seats into the coupler...yank on the string and out it comes with the tape attached

stinger390

Ok, here is one I have done several times MT. The TRS is pretty heavy but nothing one person cant handle without too much trouble. (I can lift it into my truck by myself and I'm not a big guy!) Another hand is really nice with them though. I usually put a block of wood or two under the skeg and slide the drive out on that nearly level so it does not drop, and helps keep all the parts lined up until they are all clear of the transmission. They are pretty simple to take off. I have never had any problems getting them out. A few wiggles and they almost fall out. They are a little more difficult to get back in but just requires turning the propshaft by hand to line everything up. I usually like an extra hand with re-installing. ( I also replaced one nut on each drive with McGard sterndrive locking nuts. I figure TRS's are getting more and more rare and a little security limits problems hunting down another drive if they were stolen)

The engine, transmission, and tailstock come out as one unit. If you want to take off the transmission and tailstock assembaly once the engine is out it is a simple matter of disconnecting the cooler hoses and unbolting the 6 (I think they are 1/2 inch) bolts between the engine flywheel housing and trans case, and a few wiggles there and the trans assy will come right off as well. I always leave the tailstock attached since if you take it off it dumps out all the fluid, and really adds almost no weight to the transmission.( I have stripping everything, un-bolting etc. down to about 40 minutes per engine) Hopefully I will not have to do it again for a long time.

Thanks for all your continued help with my ongoing project.

Todd

fleg1

After you pull the drive, you need to remove the 6 bolts on the compression ring in the gimbal housing, then you can remove the engine and trans together as one unit.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Hey, no problem. Thats what the forums are all about. Not to mention I am a little biased since our boats are so similiar. Cant wait to hear your speeds once you get her going

jpclear

This is only when you have the "three point", MerCtrans set-up. With B/W's the tail-stock slides out of the transom assembly after removing the front AND rear motor mount bolts. And with my TRS/MerCtrans there are six 1/4 locknuts on studs that need to be loosened on the tail-stock compression ring but do not have to be removed. --- Jer

Lmarth

Good info guys. I wish I wish I knew of Wally's string/tape trick last month when I put my #5's back on. The one shaft kept flopping down. I'll try it next time.

Wally

iTrader: (1)

Most times i fist try running a string through the u-joint so i can pull the shaft side of the joint up and down......thats before i go to the tape trick if it doesnt work.

Lmarth

Thanks again Wally. I'm too old to wrestle with those muthas!