RLW

Please read this article in regards to reading spark plugs.
It is a misconception to "read" the porcelain for jetting.

http://www.maxracesoftware.com/spark_plugs.htm

mr mercruiser

sounds like you need to pull that motor and dyno it-cause everything else is just a guess-do a wot plug reading-sounds to me like you should be staggering the jets anyways-oh by the way-if your boat flips or you have an accident ( which I hope you dont) and the insurance company finds out you removed the antisiphon valve or check ball-you might as well kiss your insurance good bye!!that check valve aint restricting anything-

RumRunner

OK, now that makes more sense.... Thought I was starting to loose it, or my CRS was kicking in again.

AIR TIME

carb is going to nickerson's this week ,with the dyno sheet .this carb was a BG circle track racing carb, thats what they told my engine builder to use back in 95. when it was making 585hp. on the dyno.I will talk to them about the timing too . so they will strip it down and built it right for a boat not a car thanks for all the help guys it means a lot to me If anyone needs a help on flooring Q/A s I can help

RLW

Nickerson's are great to work with and stand by their word.
There are others on this board who make promises they can't keep.
Dean and Brad Nickerson are the real deal. Top Shelf!

AIR TIME

Thanks RLW This is going to be the missing link, now its buy a $1,300 1050 which they think will make even more power than I was getting on the dyno or rebuild my 850 bg for $550 to $600 bucks. LOOKS more like the rebuild this yr thanks again everyone. art

HotPursuit

We always use exhaust pyrometers to dial in exhaust temperatures.Dyno will get you close but in the real world you
will be on the throttles longer than 15 seconds.Hand held or in
the dash is some real cheap insurance. Just my 2

RLW

Air Time,
I bought a used 1050 off the Internet for $300. I talked to Dean before I sent it to him. I explained what vintage 1050 I had and he told be it was a good candidate for a Nickerson conversion. By the time I was finished, I had $900 total, into the carb. You could try that route. Also, your current BG could be sold to offset the cost.
By the way, this is my second Nickerson carb. I had such great results with the first experience (Blower Carb), I didn't have to hesitate on sending my current carb (NA).

This carb had a little quirky leak down, hard starting anomaly going on (post Nickerson conversion). I dealt with it for two years. I sent him the carb two weeks ago, with a letter explaining what was happening.
Too make a long story short, they swapped out bowls, metering blocks (can develop internal cracks, rare), checked the circuitry and ran it on the dyno (they use O2 sensors to get the A/F ratio dialed in). I received the carb yesterday, no charge. Not even shipping.
How many people are doing that in today's world?

Russ