Rod bearing failure whats wrong?
#41
Originally Posted by fbh-velocity
The valve in heads looks very fine EX valve are gray/brown and top of piston black. Sparkplug more brown than gray. All seems close to similar condition.
Okay Guys, here is my konklusion based on your advice
-Totally clean block and then clean it again and then one more time
-New oil cooler 3X18" and earlīs sandwich oil thermostat
-New Oil hose and fittings with at least 1/2"id
-New crankshaft and bearings (eagle steel crank)
-New rods (3/8 )
-New lifters
-New Oil pump (Blueprinted)
-Castrol 20/50 and add some break in additiv from crane
-140* water thermostat
-add oil temperatur gauge to oil pan
-make sure piston freely move on wristpin
I still belive I can make it spin like a *****, otherwise next time it wil see the bottom of the ocean.
Thanks for your time
Okay Guys, here is my konklusion based on your advice
-Totally clean block and then clean it again and then one more time
-New oil cooler 3X18" and earlīs sandwich oil thermostat
-New Oil hose and fittings with at least 1/2"id
-New crankshaft and bearings (eagle steel crank)
-New rods (3/8 )
-New lifters
-New Oil pump (Blueprinted)
-Castrol 20/50 and add some break in additiv from crane
-140* water thermostat
-add oil temperatur gauge to oil pan
-make sure piston freely move on wristpin
I still belive I can make it spin like a *****, otherwise next time it wil see the bottom of the ocean.
Thanks for your time

You can use an Eagle crank as I did but be forwarned "Don't trust their QC". Mic ALL bearing surfaces and mic the bearings also and check clearances. My buddy has a shop and has used numerous Eagle cranks with no problems BUT he has found QC problems BEFORE the engines went togeather. Only one that ever got by him was a 302/347 Ford stroker with an out of round rear main seal surface. Leaked like a MOFO




