I have run my gears for a few hours, and then had them nitrated, and thus far they have been great. I'll tear them down for inspection after the season. It’s the most promising testing I've had to date.

Smitty,

If you want to send me a set of new gears that check our ok (xray, etc), then I will get them cryo'd properly. I have access to a chamber I KNOW is run properly (many are not). Then you can run em a bit. I'll then send em and get them hardened and coated (I think I know the best coating to try, won't spill it here, though), then I'll run em back thru the cryo.

No promises, but all I'll charge you is what the coating, hardening, and freight costs me (I get the cryo almost free in small test batches like this).

I only have access to the chamber every month or so, due to it being a research chamber instead of a production chamber, but your gears will be treated well.

If this idea works, I'll hang out a new shingle and mark the process up a little.

mc

I'm heading out to the shop right now to see how the gears actually are looking when I tear the drive down. MC,I think I found the process I'm going to use in future drives I build for myself and paying cutomers but may try other things in the search for the perfect gear treatment.Thanks for the offer,the shop I contracted with this last time impressed me with their quality,we'll see how the gears look when I get the drive torn down today,Smitty

the guys I use were approached by one of the best known Cup teams to cryo some parts that they were still having troubles with. Nobody else was giving them consistent results.

I'm sure there are good cryo shops out there. I also know that there are some cheaters. Accelerate the drop, shortchange the soak, and open the box too soon so they can rush the next batch thru. Faster = more profit, eh?

Costs $300 per cycle in nitrogen alone. This chamber is about the size of a small dumpster. They also have one you can drive a Taurus into at their other location. That one is NOT local to me, though.

Quick verdict-prop shaft sheared in 2 pieces at front gear,lower gears look like the day I put them in still,the wear looks like what you'd expect a set of stock gears at 100-200 hours to look like. This set of gears has been beat on the hardest yet out of all of them but again they only have 12 hours on them. The prop shaft was a std dia max worx shaft made from their aerospace memory shaft stuff,it has been in a drive since late 2001 or early 2002 and has 300 plus hours on it with my 3 different blower motors,all with progressively more power and taller props thru-out the years.It did break in the larger area,a xr shaft or max worx torsional xr shaft is no bigger where this one broke. It didn't owe me anything but I still won't be running any 5 blade props in the near future,Smitty

sounds like good service out of that shaft!!!

Smity what was the coating Dean at the bravo shop was putting on the lower gears called?

Rob

Not sure,I never got to talk to him or use his parts and I had this last set of gears that seem to be holding up done thru a different source,Smitty

Smitty,
It looks like you got lucky and broke the least expensive and easiest component to replace. It sounds as if you may have needed a little higher X to bring the boat up to max RPM. That may reduce the prop load. But to what extent. You are correct the 5 blades are very efficient and put alot of strain on drive components with high torque single engine applications. looks like it might be time for a #6 and eliminate any future problems.

Jim

1st thing after it happened I told my son-go back there and see if the prop is still there . It came thru unscathed and I'll give you a call about getting it back to you,thanks,Smitty

Just for future information, as this is becoming the Outdrive Thread of all Outdrive Threads!!!

The Konrad weighs the following:

Upper housing assembly = 100 LBS
Lower housing assembly = 53 LBS
Transom/Gimbal Assembly = 88 LBS
Trim Cylinders w/hardware = 26 LBS
Transmission = 110 LBS
Extension box with steering brackets = 34 LBS
Steering cylinders with hoses and mounting plates = 20 LBS
Plug-in Tail Piece Assembly = 11 LBS

Total Unit Weight: 442 LBS
All weights are "dry"


Smitty I wish you luck, seems like without the extension box and running 4 blades you might have the best life/speed/handling from your drive.