tewks

My buddy changed his engine oil the other day, it looked like a chocolate milkshake. Probably a leaky riser, and its probably been going on since the beginning of the season. The current plan is to replace the risers and do about a dozen oil changes until it starts to look clean again, but, frankly, is there really any hope for saving this engine? I had this happen a few years ago on a different boat, and we took the same remedial steps. A few weeks later the timing chain went. A few weeks after that, the oil pressure took a nose dive. Then the really nasty noises started and the season came to an abrupt end. Has anyone successfully 'saved' an engine once the internals have come into contact with water? I want to advise him to line up a new engine NOW rather than wait until something goes BOOM when he's 10 miles out... But if there's a way to save it, I'd love to know.

FOUNTAINATLAST

We've saved many motors that had milky oil as long as damage has not already occured, trick is to find the real culprit of the problem. Risers are a good start, do a leakdown test. Try to pin point any other possible problems. Water does not destroy bearings as fast as anti-freeze so there is a good chance in saving it, good luck.

mjb

Hopefully the cool water did not come in contact with the hot exhaust valves. That quick cooling can cause premature valve failure. When you flush the oil, make sure you use an addative in the first 2 oil changes that is designed to disolve the milkshake scum inside the engine. It is made just for changing oil in waterlogged engines and it works great. There are several brands out there.

Rebel_Heart

Mine is supposedly saved. Haven't run it since it happened. But mine only occured during the first hour and then didn't run it again when I found on stick. I will know more this weekend.

jmherbert

I had the same experience with mine, I tore it down anyway (had it happen 3X while trying to break motor in, long story)

Everything looked fine upon teardown. I am still glad I did it for peace of mind, but if I was you, I wouldn't worry about it.

tewks

Ok, this is sounding more encouraging than I thought. Anyone know the name of the milkshake-scum dissolving oil additive? Is this something we could pick up at a westmarine/boaus?

jmherbert

Diesel.

1. Get about 4 gallons of diesel.

2. Drain water contaminated oil. (hopefully you already have)

3. Remove old filter, put a new cheapo filter on it

4. Dump about 1 gallon of diesel into crankcase.

5. Get oil pump priming rod from auto parts/racing store.

6. Remove distrubitor. Mark where arm is at before doing so on intake AND the distributor housing in relation to the arm.

7. Circulate oil (diesel) by use of the primer rod and hand drill for about 1 minute.

8. Drain diesel from crankase.

9. Repeat steps 4, 5, 7, 8, until out of diesel, then change oil filter, put new oil in it, reinstall distributor, and run.

10. Change oil/filter after first use.

I would check timing with a timing light after this to make sure it is kosher.

cuda

I run half oil, and half diesel for a few minutes, and it usually cuts all the emulsified oil in one shot. I've done it more times than I care to remember.

mtocrs1

Had same problem this spring, Changed oil 5 times and have been running WFO ever since with no problems.

jmherbert

I've heard lots of people do that with no problems, but I am just too wussy to try it myself.