Bravo blues?
#12
Well I ain't no fancy boat mechanic or nothing, but I would try this. Pressurize the drive with about 15psi air. Fab up a fitting using a gear lube pump attachment and hook it to the vent plug. Best to do it with no lube in the drive. After pressurized, spray soapy water around the seals that you can access. If you see bubbles whala, you found the problem. There are double seals in drives (propshaft) that one side keeps water out the other side keeps lube in. If the side that keeps lube in is cut, but the other side is good, you can loose lube yet still not get water in the drive. The seals in the upper are single and only keep lube in. If you have one of those fail the bellows fills with oil and eventually seeps down the inside transom into the bilge.
BT
BT
#13
Originally Posted by GOODT
dont know which ones your talking about but heres the micro fiche
the only ones not pictured is the input shaft / gear bearing pack
the only ones not pictured is the input shaft / gear bearing pack
I called #34 the pinion gear???This is the one Mack at Imco said allways broke,chiped teeth off.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...TER+COMPONENTS
__________________
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
#14
Rene,
You do have a leaky pinion seal.. it seems. Bearing condition on the input shaft pinion gear can only be determined by checking with preload on it. If you run that bearing dry.. it takes about 1.5 min at 800- 1000rpm to weld it together.. (experienced it).. If your pinion bearing preload is loose, things get sloppy and the seal can wear. If heat is an issue it will push lube past the seals.. all kinds of stuff to consider.
Generally when I go thru a drive all the tapered bearings get replaced, as well as seals and proper setup.. I psi test and vaccum test to check for leaks after assembly.. enough heat and the lube goes right past the prop seals. If it is in the bellows, probably the pinion seal or the shift shaft seals..
Hope this helps..
Dick
You do have a leaky pinion seal.. it seems. Bearing condition on the input shaft pinion gear can only be determined by checking with preload on it. If you run that bearing dry.. it takes about 1.5 min at 800- 1000rpm to weld it together.. (experienced it).. If your pinion bearing preload is loose, things get sloppy and the seal can wear. If heat is an issue it will push lube past the seals.. all kinds of stuff to consider.
Generally when I go thru a drive all the tapered bearings get replaced, as well as seals and proper setup.. I psi test and vaccum test to check for leaks after assembly.. enough heat and the lube goes right past the prop seals. If it is in the bellows, probably the pinion seal or the shift shaft seals..
Hope this helps..
Dick
#15
Originally Posted by Mr Gadgets
Rene,
You do have a leaky pinion seal.. it seems. Bearing condition on the input shaft pinion gear can only be determined by checking with preload on it. If you run that bearing dry.. it takes about 1.5 min at 800- 1000rpm to weld it together.. (experienced it).. If your pinion bearing preload is loose, things get sloppy and the seal can wear. If heat is an issue it will push lube past the seals.. all kinds of stuff to consider.
Generally when I go thru a drive all the tapered bearings get replaced, as well as seals and proper setup.. I psi test and vaccum test to check for leaks after assembly.. enough heat and the lube goes right past the prop seals. If it is in the bellows, probably the pinion seal or the shift shaft seals..
Hope this helps..
Dick
You do have a leaky pinion seal.. it seems. Bearing condition on the input shaft pinion gear can only be determined by checking with preload on it. If you run that bearing dry.. it takes about 1.5 min at 800- 1000rpm to weld it together.. (experienced it).. If your pinion bearing preload is loose, things get sloppy and the seal can wear. If heat is an issue it will push lube past the seals.. all kinds of stuff to consider.
Generally when I go thru a drive all the tapered bearings get replaced, as well as seals and proper setup.. I psi test and vaccum test to check for leaks after assembly.. enough heat and the lube goes right past the prop seals. If it is in the bellows, probably the pinion seal or the shift shaft seals..
Hope this helps..
Dick
Thats the name I was looking for
input shaft pinion gear
__________________
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
.
The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
#16
Originally Posted by GOODT
after building drives and motors for the last 25 years and have had many many customers bring me them in boxes saying I thought I could do it, unless you have done them before and have the proper tools ( I have about 60k worth of them) then you should just take to a reliable shop in your area......
belive me its worth the expence
belive me its worth the expence

#17
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 242
Likes: 2
From: Merritt Island, Fl
I decided that I'm going into the drive myself. Ordered the tools that I think are a must today. I'll post again on this after I tear the drive down. Don't worry, I wont be posting " HOW DO I PUT THIS TOGETHER?". I got a mercruiser service manual and it seems very straightforward. It just takes patience, tools and money. Everybody, thanks for the advice, even if am ignoring some of it by doing it myself.
Rene
Rene
#18
Originally Posted by Semper Fi
Just don't let this guy GOODT (Joe Heller) work on your boat. He is a dirtbag and still owes me $1,000.00 







