Rotted Exhaust Bolts ?
#11
Originally Posted by Big Block Billy
I've seen motors have to come out because of this.
I don't entirely believe the SS vs steel thing being totally due to torque holding differences. It just plainly costs way more to make them with the right grade of stainless bolts . I use the THE stainless bolts from the hardware store and they just plain work.
I even suggested to a local marina to change the bolts on a new boat to save from headaches later.
I have seen hard stainless studs, and then some dope puts steel nuts on them and were in the same boat.
Also seen grade 8 hardware, and although better, still rusts, and is harder to remove and really breaks sockets, and resists being persuaded by chistles and drills and easy outs...
Had good results with carbide die grinder in the past. BBB
I don't entirely believe the SS vs steel thing being totally due to torque holding differences. It just plainly costs way more to make them with the right grade of stainless bolts . I use the THE stainless bolts from the hardware store and they just plain work.
I even suggested to a local marina to change the bolts on a new boat to save from headaches later.
I have seen hard stainless studs, and then some dope puts steel nuts on them and were in the same boat.
Also seen grade 8 hardware, and although better, still rusts, and is harder to remove and really breaks sockets, and resists being persuaded by chistles and drills and easy outs...
Had good results with carbide die grinder in the past. BBB
#12
ARP makes a grade 8 equal with the small 12 point head which I use. In fact all the bolts on my engine are ARP high strenght Stainless even the oil pan studs. Helps when you are doing repairs.




