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purging water from the 496 cooling system

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Old 10-29-2007 | 01:47 PM
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Exactly how do you get the antifreeze from its container to the ear muffs?


Originally Posted by bcolmsted
This year after purging all water out and pulling the blue plugs,and them reinstalling them, I ran rv antifreeze with ear muffs and then just left it in there.Won`t be a dry start next year..its good for -18.
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Old 10-29-2007 | 03:24 PM
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With one of these:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...10001/8200/0/0
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Old 10-30-2007 | 10:14 AM
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This unit then is hooked up to a set of flushing ear muffs attached to the lower unit water pick up and the jug placed higher than the engine so that the antifreeze is gravity feed to the engine's cooling water cavities? Is that how this goes?

I assume that you put duck tape or similar over the low water pickup?

Originally Posted by techman
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Old 10-30-2007 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Rage
This unit then is hooked up to a set of flushing ear muffs attached to the lower unit water pick up and the jug placed higher than the engine so that the antifreeze is gravity feed to the engine's cooling water cavities? Is that how this goes?

I assume that you put duck tape or similar over the low water pickup?
Yes, you can do it that way.

However, its my personal opinion that muffs SUCK. One little slip or hickup and you have now burned up an impeller with even more hassle to go through.

I highly recommend a open T-fitting installed before the SWP; essentially a fresh-water-flush system. I have posted how and what parts to do this with, a few times here on OSO. It can be found with a search. Basically, you will need an open T-fitting, a 90* elbow with a barb on one end and theads into the T-fitting on the other, a hose, and way to hook up a garden hose AND positively seal the garden hose end when not hooked to a hose.

Also, when using the self-winterize kit, you can ensure that you induce positive flow of antifreeze by pressurizing the jug. See this thread on how to do so:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ight=jug+valve

(PS, you can also convert an old garden sprayer into a drive oil changer, and pressurize it like above referenced.)
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Old 10-31-2007 | 11:13 AM
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Thanks for the explaination.

By the way I adopted your lawn pressure sprayer idea for drive lube change. I works great. Anything I can do to avoid getting that RedLine Shock Proof gear lube on everything I appreciate. I just wish the Bravo drain plug was not so hard to get to with the threaded hose fitting for the suction line when I pump it out. What a mess.
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Old 11-05-2007 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by QWKRN U
BTT
Did the airpump deal and per the recommendation from a local merc mechanic pulled the blue plugs on the cool fuel and raw water pump.
Question is...
How many Blue plugs are there and where are they located?

Four blue plugs(is all i could find and I looked for a while)....two by the water pump on stb side. On the port side there is one on the front of the side that is pretty easy to see. The other is near the back corner of the engine, on the bottom more than the others. I had to lay on top of the engine and lean over the sides to see and be able to reach it. Thats the one that quite a bit of water came out of, even after pumping. Not much came out of the others.

Last edited by tblrklakemo; 11-05-2007 at 01:41 PM.
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